@article{jung_lamar_2021, title={The effects of CO2 laser treatment on a digital velvet printing}, volume={5}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2021.1926119}, abstractNote={Abstract This research combines two digital technologies for customizing textile substrates: carbon dioxide (CO2) laser treatment and digital textile printing. The objective is to determine if creating pile height variation by laser engraving cotton velvet fabric prior to digital inkjet printing can impact the resulting color. Color yield depends on the surface in contact with the dye, a pile fabric (cotton velvet) was selected for this investigation. To develop samples, laser engraving was conducted to create pile height variance before printing using a CO2 laser machine, and laser intensity was controlled by adjusting the grayscale of patterns to modify pile height and surface contour of velvet. After laser treatment, seven-colored stripes were printed with a reactive dye ink printer. The reflectance values of printed color were measured by using a spectrophotometer. Pile height variation was demonstrated to cause a measurable effect on color results in inkjet printing using instrumental measures.}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Jung, Uikyung and Lamar, Traci}, year={2021}, month={May} } @article{porterfield_lamar_2016, title={Examining the effectiveness of virtual fitting with 3D garment simulation}, volume={10}, ISSN={1754-3266 1754-3274}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2016.1250290}, DOI={10.1080/17543266.2016.1250290}, abstractNote={ABSTRACT In this paper, we report how the interactive process of garment fitting, as a component of the apparel development process, was impacted by the use of virtual fittings in place of live fittings. We created 3D garment simulations using five existing garment patterns, then conducted virtual fittings with the maker and the designer of each garment. Participants viewed the virtual fittings via WebEx. They responded to questions about fit and design details, and about the experience of participating in a virtual fitting. They had opportunities to suggest alterations and to see alternate style line markings on the virtual garments. Responses showed that elements inherent to both preparation and execution of a virtual fitting impacted the collaborative experience.}, number={3}, journal={International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education}, publisher={Informa UK Limited}, author={Porterfield, Anne and Lamar, Traci A. M.}, year={2016}, month={Nov}, pages={320–330} } @article{bae_hong_lamar_2015, title={Effect of Texture on Color Variation in Inkjet-Printed Woven Textiles}, volume={40}, ISSN={["1520-6378"]}, DOI={10.1002/col.21865}, abstractNote={AbstractInkjet‐printed textiles are influenced by a wide range of parameters due to highly diverse textile structures and the resulting textures. The goal of this study is to understand the effect of texture on color appearance in inkjet‐printed woven textiles. Cotton‐woven samples were constructed with nine different weave structures. Each sample was digitally printed with identical squares of primary colors cyan, magenta, and yellow and secondary colors red, green, and blue. The amount of ink applied was controlled consistently with an image editing software. CIE L* values were calculated from the measured reflectance. 25 observers ranked the perceived texture and color lightness of each sample. Perceived visual texture and perceived color lightness scales were estimated from the rankings using the rank order method. The measured CIE L* values and the scale of perceived lightness were positively related for the primary and secondary colors. Instrumental measurements of the textile surface characteristics were positively related to the visual scale. Texture was demonstrated to cause a measurable effect on color results in inkjet printing, both using instrumental and perceptual measures. To investigate if the color differences were substantial enough to cause “out of tolerance” ratings in textiles based on common textile industry color acceptance procedures, color differences among the samples were calculated and compared to a reference sample. Results demonstrated that color variation due to texture was sufficient to lead to rejection of a printed color in comparison to a color specification. © 2014 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. Col Res Appl, 40, 297–303, 2015}, number={3}, journal={COLOR RESEARCH AND APPLICATION}, author={Bae, Ji Hyun and Hong, Kyung Hwa and Lamar, Traci May}, year={2015}, month={Jun}, pages={297–303} } @article{kenkare_lamar_pandurangan_eischen_2008, title={Enhancing accuracy of drape simulation. Part I: Investigation of drape variability via 3D scanning}, volume={99}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000701489222}, abstractNote={Abstract The objective of this two part paper is to present a method of enhancing accuracy of fabric drape simulation using commercially available software. In Part I, we report results of an investigation of drape variability for a set of fabrics having varied mechanical properties, an essential step in defining accuracy for drape simulation. Results illustrate that fabric drape behaviour is highly variable and thus provide no single drape configuration to target with simulation. Development of a revolutionary method for capturing drape of actual fabrics and measuring that drape in a virtual three-dimensional (3D) environment is also presented. The method allows identical drape measurement processes to be implemented for actual and simulated fabrics and provides opportunity for use of additional measures to assess fabric drape in three dimensions. The accomplishments presented in this paper are utilized to demonstrate, in Part II, development of a relationship that enhances realism of particle model simulations generated using the commercial drape simulation software.}, number={3}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Kenkare, Narahari and Lamar, Traci A. M. and Pandurangan, Pradeep and Eischen, Jeffrey}, year={2008}, pages={211–218} } @article{pandurangan_eischen_kenkare_lamar_2008, title={Enhancing accuracy of drape simulation. Part II: Optimized drape simulation using industry-specific software}, volume={99}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000701489198}, abstractNote={Abstract Three-dimensional virtual representations of fabrics are done based on mass-spring modeling, which represents cloth as a mesh of particles connected by springs. The spring constant values input to the model correspond to the mechanical properties of the modeled fabric. For apparel, these representations have been incorporated into commercial software packages for use in design and development of garments. However, fabric mechanical property values as derived using industry test methods cannot be input directly into the commercial software to produce simulations that accurately represent a specific fabric. A systematic way of selecting input parameters to a particle model was developed by comparing the drape of circular fabric samples whose mechanical properties were measured by the Kawabata evaluation system to simulations produced by the particle model using methods developed in Part I of this paper. Also, a relationship was developed between measured fabric mechanical properties and simulation input parameters and then tested on simulations of apparel samples.}, number={3}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Pandurangan, Pradeep and Eischen, Jeffrey and Kenkare, Narahari and Lamar, Traci A. M.}, year={2008}, pages={219–226} } @article{may-plumlee_little_2006, title={Proactive product development integrating consumer requirements}, volume={18}, ISSN={["1758-5953"]}, DOI={10.1108/09556220610637512}, abstractNote={PurposeThis paper presents a model for an effective product development process, which is now becoming increasingly critical to success of apparel firms.Design/methodology/approachThis research modeled apparel product development as a market driven process and integrated the consumer purchase decision in the model of proactive product development integrating consumer requirements (PPDICR). The PPDICR links the consumer purchase decision and multiple consumer research strategies to specific stages of the no‐interval coherently phased product development model for apparel through 15 avenues of consumer input.FindingsThe PPDICR model contributes to our understanding on how consumer input can be used to facilitate the process and through what avenues that input may be acquired. This model provides an effective tool for intra‐company to inter‐business analysis of consumer input into the apparel product development process.Research limitations/implicationsThe PPDICR provides a theoretical understanding of apparel production, and is useful to researchers in visualizing the impact of changes in the business environment, integrating research projects, and establishing research priorities.Practical implicationsPractitioners may use the model to improve and develop products, select appropriate consumer input, and strategically plan organizational changes.Originality/valueThis model is a useful tool for effective product development both for researchers and industrialists alike. It brings in the important element of the integration of consumer information.}, number={1-2}, journal={INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CLOTHING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY}, author={May-Plumlee, T and Little, TJ}, year={2006}, pages={53–66} } @article{kenkare_may-plumlee_2005, title={Evaluation of drape characteristics in fabrics}, volume={17}, ISSN={["0955-6222"]}, DOI={10.1108/09556220510581254}, abstractNote={PurposeTo provide researchers with the details of developments in instruments to measure fabric drape and review the literature related to fabric drape.Design/methodology/approach – In recent years, there has been a renewed interest in investigating the aesthetic behavior of fabrics due to the developments in objective evaluation techniques. To understand drape behavior, it is essential to know how drape is measured quantitatively. This paper reviews research related to drape characteristics of fabrics, two‐dimensional instruments and analysis of drape by measuring stiffness, three‐dimensional instruments developed to measure drape, fabric mechanical properties and their influence on drape measurement, and the latest developments in the field including image analysis, the dynamic drape tester and other related research.Findings – Many instruments for measuring drape have been developed including the earliest that assessed stiffness of fabrics, later versions of drape meters and recent innovative instruments for capturing complex drape information. Even though extensive detail for simple geometric forms such as circles and squares can be provided by the newest methods, measurement of the drape characteristics of complex forms needs the consideration of researchers to extend the work on drape measurement to garments. It was also noted that there are some contradictory conclusions regarding the properties influencing fabric drape.Originality/value – This paper is offered as a concise reference for individuals beginning research in the area of fabric drape.}, number={1-2}, journal={INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CLOTHING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY}, author={Kenkare, N and May-Plumlee, T}, year={2005}, pages={109–123} } @article{kenkare_may-plumlee_2005, title={Fabric drape measurement: A modified method using digital image processing}, volume={4}, number={3}, journal={Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management}, author={Kenkare, N. and May-Plumlee, T.}, year={2005} } @article{may-plumlee_little_2001, title={Consumer purchase data as a strategic product development tool}, volume={1}, number={3}, journal={Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management}, author={May-Plumlee, T. and Little, T. J.}, year={2001} } @inproceedings{may-plumlee_little_1999, title={Universal and bra consumers' evaluative criteria}, booktitle={ITAA proceedings : proceedings of the annual meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc., November 10 - 13, 1999, Santa Fe, New Mexico}, publisher={Monument, Colo. : ITAA}, author={May-Plumlee, T. and Little, T.J.}, year={1999} } @inproceedings{may-plumlee_1998, title={Building unique learning opportunities from consulting ventures}, booktitle={ITAA proceedings : proceedings of the annual meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc., November 18 - 21, 1998, Dallas, Texas}, publisher={Monument, Colo. : ITAA}, author={May-Plumlee, T.}, year={1998}, pages={109} } @inproceedings{may-plumlee_vass_1998, title={Linking the design curriculum through a multiclass project}, booktitle={ITAA proceedings : proceedings of the annual meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc., November 18 - 21, 1998, Dallas, Texas}, publisher={Monument, Colo. : ITAA}, author={May-Plumlee, T. and Vass, D.}, year={1998}, pages={52} } @inproceedings{may-plumlee_1997, title={Application of TQM strategies to design of functional apparel: A case study}, booktitle={ITAA proceedings: proceedings of the Annual Meeting of the International Textile & Apparel Association, Inc., November 12-15, 1997, Knoxville, Tennessee}, publisher={Monument, CO: International Textile & Apparel Association}, author={May-Plumlee, T.}, year={1997}, pages={99} } @inproceedings{may-plumlee_cassill_1997, title={Selection and purchase of intimate apparel}, booktitle={ITAA proceedings: proceedings of the Annual Meeting of the International Textile & Apparel Association, Inc., November 12-15, 1997, Knoxville, Tennessee}, publisher={Monument, CO: International Textile & Apparel Association}, author={May-Plumlee, T. and Cassill, N.}, year={1997}, pages={99} } @article{may-plumlee_gilmore_1995, title={Ultrasuede?: Nonwoven technology lessons from nature}, volume={7}, number={2}, journal={International Nonwovens Journal}, author={May-Plumlee, T. and Gilmore, T.}, year={1995}, pages={39–48} } @inproceedings{may-plumlee_gilmore_1995, title={Ultrasuede?: Nonwovens imitating nature}, booktitle={International nonwovens : network - conference - showcase, September 18 - 20, 1995, Tradewinds, St. Petersburg, Florida ; book of papers}, publisher={Cary, NC: INDA, Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry}, author={May-Plumlee, T. and Gilmore, T.}, year={1995}, pages={237–255} } @article{may-plumlee_1993, title={Support [TC]2 interns, fellows}, volume={54}, number={12}, journal={Apparel Industry Magazine}, author={May-Plumlee, T.}, year={1993}, pages={92} } @article{workman_1991, title={Achieving good fit in clothing.}, volume={23}, number={3}, journal={What's New in Home Economics}, author={Workman, J.}, year={1991}, pages={24–34} }