TY - CHAP TI - Ancient Weaving and Dyeing Techniques AU - Dewey, Hannah AU - Youn, Seonyoung AU - Budhathoki‐Uprety, Januka AU - Mathur, Kavita T2 - Handbook of Museum Textiles PY - 2022/12/20/ DO - 10.1002/9781119983903.ch10 SP - 193-207 PB - Wiley UR - http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/9781119983903.ch10 ER - TY - JOUR TI - Systematic investigation and evaluation of modified ring yarns by feeding three-roving strands AU - Ling, Yali AU - Henson, Claire AU - West, Andre AU - Yin, Rong T2 - TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL AB - Spinning is one of the major steps in textiles to convert staple fibers from either natural or synthetic sources into continuous and twisted yarns, and ring spinning has always been the dominant yarn technology since its invention. Recently, many ring-based modifications have been developed to improve yarn productivity and properties. In this work, a modified ring spinning technique has been developed by feeding three-roving strands into a conventional ring frame for producing yarns with better performance. A strand delivery guide with different spacings (1–5 mm) was used for the production of three-strand yarns. The quantitative relationships between the spinning parameters and yarn properties have been systematically investigated. The properties of the modified yarns were evaluated, including yarn tensile properties, evenness, and hairiness, and the statistical relationships were obtained by least squares polynomial fitting. The experimental results indicate that the guide spacing and twist multiplier significantly influence the yarn properties. The spinning triangle of the modified yarns resembles Solospun yarns, suggesting supreme yarn abrasion performance. DA - 2022/11/23/ PY - 2022/11/23/ DO - 10.1177/00405175221139323 SP - SN - 1746-7748 KW - Ring spinning KW - yarn property KW - strand spacing KW - twist multiplier ER - TY - JOUR TI - New insight into the flexural rigidity of multi-filament yarn AU - Luan, Kun AU - Kirkwood, Elizabeth AU - Newman, Zoe AU - West, Andre AU - DenHartog, Emiel T2 - TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL AB - Filament yarn is one of the most widely used soft strands in the textile industry; it exhibits excellent flexibility and is capable of being used in various productions, including knitting, weaving, braiding, sewing, and embroidery. The inherent complex interlacement between fibers, including twist, entanglement, and yarn geometry, often exhibits a nonlinear response to external loads. In addition, the interlacement of fibers also introduces difficulties when accurately measuring the flexural property of multi-filament yarn. In particular, the flexural rigidity of the yarn strongly influences the quality of end products when incorporated into novel textile technologies. In this paper, we developed a three-point bending instrument and a method for measuring the flexural rigidity of filament yarn. A representative point obeyed from Coplan’s construction on the bending constitutive curve was determined to obtain pure flexural rigidity. Furthermore, the bending process and deformations across cross-sections of filament yarns were discussed. The research provides new physical insights into the yarn bending property with the consideration of eliminating the sub-deformation variabilities. The work also paves the way for the accurate and quick measurement of the flexural rigidity of high length-to-width ratio soft materials by a three-point bending method. DA - 2022/8/1/ PY - 2022/8/1/ DO - 10.1177/00405175221114655 SP - SN - 1746-7748 KW - Three-point bending KW - pretension KW - spun yarn KW - conductive yarn KW - flexural rigidity KW - knittability ER - TY - JOUR TI - A 2D image body measurement system developed with neural networks and a color-coded measurement garment AU - Xia, Sibei AU - Li, Jiayin AU - Istook, Cynthia L. AU - West, Andre J. T2 - INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CLOTHING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY AB - Purpose Two-dimensional (2D) measurement technology has become more popular than before, thanks to the widespread availability of smartphones and smart devices. However, most existing 2D body measurement systems have background constraints and may raise privacy concerns. The purpose of this research was to test the idea of designing a 2D measurement system that works with a color-coded measurement garment for background removal and privacy protection. Clothing consumers can use the proposed system for daily apparel shopping purposes. Design/methodology/approach A 2D body measurement system was designed and tested. The system adopted a close-fitted color-coded measurement garment and used neural network models to detect the color-code in the garment area and remove backgrounds. In total, 78 participants were recruited, and the collected data were split into training and testing sets. The training dataset was used to train the neural network and statistical prediction models for the 2D system. The testing dataset was used to compare the performance of the 2D system with a commercial three-dimensional (3D) body scanner. Findings The results showed that the color-coded measurement garment worked well with the neural network models to process the images for measurement extraction. The 2D measurement system worked better at close-fitted areas than loose-fitted areas. Originality/value This research combined a color-coded measurement garment with neural network models to solve the privacy and background challenges of the 2D body measurement system. Other researchers have never studied this approach. DA - 2022/8/15/ PY - 2022/8/15/ DO - 10.1108/IJCST-08-2021-0114 SP - SN - 1758-5953 KW - Body measurement KW - Neural network KW - Image processing ER - TY - JOUR TI - Novel 3-D Spacer Textiles to Protect Crops from Insect Infestation and That Enhance Plant Growth AU - Cave, Grayson L. AU - West, Andre J. AU - McCord, Marian G. AU - Koene, Bryan AU - Beck, J. Benjamin AU - Deguenon, Jean M. AU - Luan, Kun AU - Roe, R. Michael T2 - AGRICULTURE-BASEL AB - Pesticide-free, 3-D, spacer fabrics (Plant Armor Generation (PA Gen) 1 and 2) were investigated for proof-of-concept as an insect barrier to protect plants and improve plant agronomics for organic farming. The time to 50% penetration (TP50) for tobacco thrips, Frankliniella fusca (Hinds) adults in laboratory Petri dish bioassays was 30 and 175 min for PA Gen 1 and 2, respectively, and 12 min for the control (a commercially available, single layer-crop cover, Proteknet). PA Gen 2 was ≥90% resistant to penetration of unfed caterpillar neonates, Helicoverpa zea (Boddie), while the TP50‘s for Gen 1 and Proteknet were 3.1 and 2.35 h, respectively. In small cage studies, PA Gen 2 covered potted cabbage plants were 100% resistant to penetration by these insects through 10 d after which the study was ended. In small field plot studies for 3 summer months, cabbage plants grew approximately twice as fast when covered versus not covered with Gen 1 and Gen 2 without the need for insecticides or herbicides. This was not observed for the control crop cover. Martindale abrasion tests demonstrated Gen 1 and 2 were at least 6- and 1.8-fold more durable than the control crop cover used. Data are also presented on percentage light, water, air, and water vapor penetration across each textile and operational temperatures and humidity for cabbage plants covered and uncovered in small field plots. DA - 2022/4// PY - 2022/4// DO - 10.3390/agriculture12040498 VL - 12 IS - 4 SP - SN - 2077-0472 KW - insect control KW - organic farming KW - non-insecticidal KW - spacer fabric KW - enhanced plant growth ER - TY - JOUR TI - Fashionable sportswear working as a body measurement collecting tool AU - Li, Jiayin AU - Xia, Sibei AU - West, Andre J. AU - Istook, Cynthia L. T2 - INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CLOTHING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY AB - Purpose A two-dimensional (2D) body measurement system was implemented to study the application of sportswear design in measurement garment development. A total of 50 participants were recruited. The basic demographic information and sportswear preference data were collected through a survey to understand consumer preferences and acceptance of the new designs. The body measurements were collected through both the selected 2D measurement system and a commercial three-dimensional scanning booth to evaluate measurement accuracy. Design/methodology/approach Finding the right size has been a long-existing problem for clothing consumers. Size problem is the most common reason for e-commerce returns and adds a high cost for retailers. One possible solution is to offer consumers an easy-to-use method that extracts accurate body measurements to be used for clothing size selection. The purpose of this research is to apply sportswear design elements on measurement garments to see if consumers’ interest in using the 2D measurement system can be increased without influencing the measurement accuracy. Findings The results showed that the added design features increased consumers’ interest in using 2D body measuring technology without significantly influencing measurement accuracy. Originality/value This research applied sportswear elements to convert a 2D measurement bodysuit to a fashionable clothing product. The solution resolved users’ privacy concerns and increased their acceptance and use of the technology. Other studies have not focused on using aesthetic features to improve the 2D measurement technology. DA - 2022/3/14/ PY - 2022/3/14/ DO - 10.1108/IJCST-07-2021-0090 SP - SN - 1758-5953 KW - e-commerce KW - Fit KW - Image processing KW - Sportswear KW - Body measurement ER -