TY - JOUR TI - A device to measure the shrinkage and heat transfers during the curing cycle of thermoset composites AU - Nawab, Yasir AU - Boyard, Nicolas AU - Sobotka, Vincent AU - Casari, Pascal AU - Jacquemin, Frédéric T2 - Advanced Materials Research AB - Residual stresses development during manufacturing of composites depends mostly on the shrinkage behaviour of the polymer matrix from the point where stresses cannot be relaxed anymore. The matrix shrinkage may have a thermal and/or chemical origin and can leads to dimensional instability, ply cracking, delamination and fibre buckling. The approaches for measuring cure shrinkage can be classified as volume and non-volume dilatometry. Each technique has corresponding advantages and drawbacks but volume dilatometry is the one that is mostly used. In the present article, we report a home-built apparatus, named PVT-a mould, on which temperature, volume change and reaction conversion degree are measured simultaneously for an applied pressure. It can also be used to study the composite during curing and for the bulk samples having several millimetre thicknesses. The instrument is preferred over other techniques as it works in conditions close to the industrial ones. This device was used to measure cure shrinkage of resin and thermoset composite material with different fibre fractions as a function of temperature and reaction conversion degree. The heat of cure of the resin measured by PVT-a mould was compared to the results obtained by DSC. DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// DO - 10.4028/WWW.SCIENTIFIC.NET/AMR.326.19 VL - 326 SP - 19-28 UR - https://publons.com/wos-op/publon/277498/ ER - TY - SOUND TI - Entrepreneurial Challenges and Finance AU - Hergeth, Helmut AU - Usack, Nikolai DA - 2011/8/10/ PY - 2011/8/10/ ER - TY - CONF TI - Technical Assessment of Microbial Ecosystem Fermentations for Treatment of Organic Waste Streams AU - Tull, Herbert AU - Fellner, Vivek AU - Hergeth, Helmut AU - Calt, Edward T2 - 17th International Interdisciplinary Conference on the Environment C2 - 2011/6/28/ CY - Kailua-Kona, Hawaii DA - 2011/6/28/ PY - 2011/6/28/ ER - TY - SOUND TI - Overcoming Fear of Finance AU - Fassinger, Tamara AU - Hergeth, Helmut DA - 2011/10/17/ PY - 2011/10/17/ ER - TY - SOUND TI - Project Valuation – Risk and Return AU - Hergeth, Helmut DA - 2011/9/30/ PY - 2011/9/30/ ER - TY - CONF TI - Alpaca, Cashmere, and Branding: What Does Fiber Contents Mean for Branding? AU - Sherman, Rhonda AU - Hergeth, Helmut T2 - New Orleans International Academic Conference C2 - 2011/3/14/ CY - New Orleans, LA DA - 2011/3/14/ PY - 2011/3/14/ ER - TY - CONF TI - Added Value in Luxury Brands Through RFIDs AU - Hergeth, Helmut AU - Heinisch, Marc AU - Rödel, Hartmut T2 - New Orleans International Academic Conference C2 - 2011/3/14/ CY - New Orleans, LA DA - 2011/3/14/ PY - 2011/3/14/ ER - TY - CONF TI - Technology Roadmapping and Knowledge Creation AU - Hergeth, Helmut T2 - 2011 New Orleans International Academic Conference C2 - 2011/3/14/ CY - New Orleans, LA DA - 2011/3/14/ PY - 2011/3/14/ ER - TY - CONF TI - Simulating Sudden Change and the Value of Timely Information AU - Hergeth, Helmut T2 - 38th Annual Conference Proceedings for ABSEL C2 - 2011/// C3 - Annual Conference Proceedings for ABSEL (Association for Business Simulation and Experimental Learning), Developments in Business Simulation and Experimental Learning CY - Pensacola, FL DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/3// VL - 38 SP - 62–64 UR - https://journals.tdl.org/absel/index.php/absel/article/view/224 ER - TY - CONF TI - Island Financial Resource Impacts from Microbial Ecosystem Fermentation for the Treatment of Organic Waste Streams AU - Cult, Edward AU - Feitshans, Theodore AU - Zering, Kelly AU - Hergeth, Helmut T2 - 17th International Interdisciplinary Conference on the Environment C2 - 2011/6/28/ CY - Kailua-Kona, Hawaii DA - 2011/6/28/ PY - 2011/6/28/ ER - TY - CONF TI - An Analysis of Size USA Men’s Body Shapes for Developing Menswear Sizing Systems AU - Hwang- Shin, S.J. AU - Istook, C. AU - Lee, J.H. T2 - 2011 Fall Conference of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles C2 - 2011/10// C3 - Proceedings of the 2011 Fall Conference of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles DA - 2011/10// PY - 2011/10/15/ ER - TY - JOUR TI - Comparative Assessment of Virtual Garments using Direct and Manual Avatars AU - Lim, H. AU - Istook, C. T2 - The Research Journal of the Costume Culture AB - The purpose of this paper is to compare two avatars made using direct and manual methods and to evaluate the fit and appearance of two virtual garments on the direct and manual avatars. In this study, two subjects were measured by (TC) 2 body scanner and the avatars and virtual garments were created by OptiTex software. The direct avatar was made by the direct importation of 3D body scan data and the manual avatar was made by manual input from extracted body measurement. Two virtual garments in a tank-top were evaluated by distance, transparency, and stretch maps. In the results of comparing difference of the direct and manual avatars, the bust and back of the manual avatar are protruded slightly more than that of the direct avatar and the manual avatar is slightly larger dimensions at the bust, waist, abdomen, and hip area in the side view in case of subject 1 and 2. In the results of comparing difference of the fit and appearance of two virtual garments on the direct and manual avatars, in case of subject 1 and 2, the back of the virtual garment on the manual avatar are protruded more than that of the direct avatar. Also, the ease in the bust area of the virtual garment on the manual avatar with a projected bust area was smaller than that of the virtual garment on the direct avatar and the stretch of that of the manual avatar was also high in the bust area. The results of this study are expected to be used as basic information in the apparel industry using virtual try-on technology. DA - 2011/12// PY - 2011/12// DO - 10.29049/rjcc.2011.19.6.1359 VL - 19 IS - 6 SP - 1359-1371 SN - 1226-0401 UR - http://dx.doi.org/10.29049/rjcc.2011.19.6.1359 ER - TY - JOUR TI - Comparative Analysis of Body Measurement and Fit Evaluation between 2D Direct Body Measuring and 3D Body Scan Measuring AU - Istook, Cynthia L. AU - Lim, Hosun AU - Suk, Chun Jong T2 - The Research Journal of the Costume Culture AB - This study purposed to analyze differences in body measurement between the 2D direct body measuring method and the 3D body scan measuring method and to perform the appearance evaluation and cross-sectional evaluation of the fit of pants to which body measurements obtained by each measuring method were applied. Body measuring was conducted in 10 women in their 20s-30s using 2D direct body measuring and 3D automatic measuring with Hamamatsu body scanner. Among the 10 women, 3 participated in experimental garment wearing. Experimental pants were made using their 2D direct body measurements and 3D automatic measurements, and wearing tests were performed through expert evaluation and cross-sectional evaluation. The results of the experiment were as follows. According to the results of comparative analysis on differences between 2D direct body measurements and 3D scan measurements, 3D automatic measurements were significantly larger in bust circumference, ankle circumference, armscye circumference, shoulder length, scye depth, and arm length. As circumferences measured with the 3D body scanner were somewhat larger than directly measured ones, it is suggested to adjust ease when using existing pattern making methods. We prepared experimental garments by the same pattern making method through applying body measurements obtained with the two measuring methods, and assessed the fit of the garment comparatively through expert evaluation and 3D scan cross-sectional evaluation. According to the results, 2D-pants using 2D direct body measurements was slightly tighter than 3D-pants using 3D measurements in waist circumference, hip circumference, and abdominal circumference. In the results of comparing appearance in terms of the fit of the experimental garment in each subject, significant difference was observed in most of the compared items. This result suggests that 3D automatic body measuring data may show different accuracy according to body shape and therefore it is necessary to examine difference between 2D direct body measurements and 3D automatic measurements according to body shape. DA - 2011/12// PY - 2011/12// DO - 10.29049/rjcc.2011.19.6.1347 VL - 19 IS - 6 SP - 1347-1358 SN - 1226-0401 UR - http://dx.doi.org/10.29049/rjcc.2011.19.6.1347 ER - TY - JOUR TI - Confronting stereotypes: apparel fit preferences of Mexican‐American women AU - Newcomb, Elizabeth AU - Istook, Cynthia T2 - Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal AB - Purpose This study aims to investigate the apparel fit preferences of Mexican‐American women between the ages of 18 and 25 years old from the Southwestern USA. The study also seeks to analyze the effect of body shape perception, body mass index, and clothing size on apparel fit preferences. Design/methodology/approach Data were collected in an online survey using an original fit preference assessment scale. Sampling was restricted in terms of gender, age, subculture, and geography to control for the variability that exists in apparel preferences and the Hispanic market due to these factors. Descriptive and inferential statistics were used to describe the sample's fit preferences for casual pants, tops, skirts, and dresses and to determine whether physical body characteristics impact these preferences. Findings Overall, young Mexican‐American women preferred semi‐fitted apparel across all garment categories studied. Physical body characteristics tended to impact on the sample's preferences for close and loose‐fitting garments, with respondents who had narrower waists and smaller body sizes more likely to prefer close‐fitting garments. Respondents who had less defined waists and larger body sizes were more likely to prefer loose‐fitting garments. Originality/value Many apparel firms wish to create targeted products for the Hispanic consumer, given the substantial growth in the size and purchasing power of this market. However, firms have frequently had to rely on cultural stereotypes due to a lack of information. The study documented in the paper developed an original fit preference scale to obtain important information that can be used to impact on apparel product development for this consumer. DA - 2011/9/20/ PY - 2011/9/20/ DO - 10.1108/13612021111169915 VL - 15 IS - 4 SP - 389-411 J2 - Jnl of Fashion Mrkting and Mgt LA - en OP - SN - 1361-2026 UR - http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/13612021111169915 DB - Crossref KW - Apparel design KW - Ethnic groups KW - Fashion design KW - Product development KW - Women KW - Young adults KW - Clothing KW - Consumer psychology ER - TY - JOUR TI - Various Men's Body Shapes and Drops for Developing Menswear Sizing Systems in the United States AU - HwangShin, Su-Jeong AU - Istook, Cynthia L. AU - Lee, Jin-Hee T2 - Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles AB - Menswear body types are often labeled on garments (to indicate how the garments are designed to fit) with indicators of a size category such as regular, portly, and stout, athletic, or big and tall. A drop (relationships between the chest and waist girths) is related to the fit of a tailored suit. However, current standards are not designed for various drops or body types. There is not enough information of categorizing men's body shapes for the apparel sizing systems. In this article, a set of men's data from SizeUSA sizing survey was analyzed to investigate men's body shapes and drops. Factor analysis and a cluster analysis method were used to categorize men's body shapes. In the results, twenty-five variables were selected through the factor analysis and found four factors: girth factor, height factor, torso girth factor, and slope degree factor. According to the factor and cluster analysis, various body shapes were found: Slim Shape (SS - tall ectomorphy), Heavy Shape (HS - athletic, big & tall, endomorphy and mesomorphy), Slant Inverted Triangle Shape (SITS - regular, slight ectomorphy and slight mesomorphy weight range from normal to slightly overweight), Short Round Top Shape (SRTS - portly and stout, endomorphy). Body shapes were related to fitting categories. SS and HS were related to big & tall fitting category. SITS was related to regular. SRTS was related to portly and stout. Shape 1 (31%) and Shape 2 (26%) were related to current big & tall category. Shape 3 (34%) were related to regular. Shape 4 (9%) were in portly and stout category. ASTM D 6240 standard was the only available standard that presented a regular fitting category. Various drops were found within a same chest size group; however, this study revealed great variances of drops by body shape. DA - 2011/12/31/ PY - 2011/12/31/ DO - 10.5850/jksct.2011.35.12.1454 VL - 35 IS - 12 SP - 1454-1465 J2 - Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles LA - en OP - SN - 1225-1151 UR - http://dx.doi.org/10.5850/jksct.2011.35.12.1454 DB - Crossref ER - TY - CHAP TI - Three-dimensional (3D) technologies for apparel and textile design AU - Istook, C.L. AU - Newcomb, E.A. AU - Lim, H. T2 - Computer Technology for Textiles and Apparel AB - This chapter provides an overview of the technologies used for 3D apparel CAD systems. The apparel industry can benefit immensely from the development of integrated 3D CAD systems, in which body models play a critical role. While significant advancements have been made in computer technologies and approaches that improve 3D modeling, research continues in the development of more realistic and mechanically accurate models. Completed models may be integrated with 3D garment design and visualization and 3D fabric modeling systems to create a truly interactive 3D product development and marketing tool. PY - 2011/// DO - 10.1533/9780857093608.3.296 SP - 296-325 OP - PB - Elsevier SN - 9781845697297 UR - http://dx.doi.org/10.1533/9780857093608.3.296 DB - Crossref ER - TY - CONF TI - Measuring and understanding change recipients' buy-in during lean program implementation efforts AU - Mazur, L.M. AU - Rothenberg, L. AU - McCreery, J.K. C2 - 2011/// C3 - 61st Annual IIE Conference and Expo Proceedings DA - 2011/// UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?eid=2-s2.0-84900306787&partnerID=MN8TOARS ER - TY - CHAP TI - Effect of Protective Coating on the Performance of Wearable Antennas AU - Suh, Minyoung AU - Carroll, Kate AU - Oxenham, William T2 - Lecture Notes in Computer Science AB - Current smart clothing faces challenges due to discomfort provided by some technological components. A wireless body area network using inductively coupled fabric antennas is suggested as one of the solutions to overcome this. Different types of fabric substrates (denim, broadcloth, and jersey) and protective coating (acrylic resin, polyurethane, and silicone) were selected and engineered to optimize the antenna performance – in terms of mechanical and electrical properties. Experimental results show that protective coating affects almost every mechanical property very significantly. Resistance of the antenna was recorded lowest on the polyurethane-coated antennas and inductance was minimized on the broadcloth substrates. Recognizing a trade-off between electrical performance and comfort, this research looks at ways to optimize the overall usability. PY - 2011/// DO - 10.1007/978-3-642-21666-4_10 SP - 84-93 OP - PB - Springer Berlin Heidelberg SN - 9783642216657 9783642216664 UR - http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-21666-4_10 DB - Crossref ER - TY - SOUND TI - Development of Wireless Transmission between Inductively Coupled Fabric Layers in Smart Clothing AU - Suh, M. AU - Carroll, K. AU - Oxenham, W. DA - 2011/1/7/ PY - 2011/1/7/ M3 - poster ER - TY - SOUND TI - Assessment of Factors Affecting Student Creative Output in Development of New Textile Products AU - Carroll, K. AU - Powell, N. AU - Suh, M. DA - 2011/11/17/ PY - 2011/11/17/ M3 - poster ER - TY - CONF TI - Middle-class Chinese consumers and luxury fashion products: how strong is the love? AU - Xu, Y. AU - Chung, J. C2 - 2011/// C3 - Proceedings of American Collegiate Retailing Association’s spring meeting DA - 2011/// ER - TY - CONF TI - How do I look?-exploring the influence of public self-consciousness on Chinese consumers’ behavior for Luxury fashion products AU - Yang, R. AU - Giovanni, S. AU - Xu, Y. C2 - 2011/// C3 - International Textiles and Apparel Association’s annual meeting DA - 2011/// ER - TY - JOUR TI - Chinese dietary culture influences consumers’ intention to use imported soy-based dietary supplements: an application of Theory of Planned Behavior AU - Ren, J. AU - Chung, J. AU - Stoel, L. AU - Xu, Y. T2 - The International Journal of Consumer Studies AB - The over-saturated dietary supplement (DS) market in developed countries such as the US spurs the need for foreign market expansion, and the Chinese market provides a great potential for the foreign soy-based DS industry. This study examined Chinese consumers' intention to use imported (US-made US-brand) soy-based DS based on the Theory of Planned Behavior (TPB). Two alternative models were also examined in which Chinese dietary culture variables, including soyfoods favourability and dining-out sociability, as well as their interactions with attitudes, were integrated into the TPB model. A cross-sectional, self-administered survey was conducted with a sample of 215 subjects (137 females; 78 males) in Shanghai, China. The TPB variables attitude, subjective norm, perceived behaviour control and behavioural intention, as well as the Chinese dietary culture variables: soyfoods favourability and dine-out sociability were measured. Multiple linear regressions were used to analyze the three models. The statistical results indicated that all three models were statistically significant to predict intention (Model 1: R2 = 0.473, P < 0.001; Model 2: R2 = 0.505, P < 0.001; Model 3: R2 = 0.525, P < 0.001). The results also showed that attitude, perceived behavioural control, and dine-out sociability were significant (positive) determinants of intention. Soyfoods favourability acted a significant (negative) moderator of the relationship between attitude and intention. Subjective norm had no significant impact on intention. In conclusion, the TPB model was useful to predict Chinese consumers' intention to use imported soy-based DS, but not all the TPB components weighed significantly in exploring DS consumption in China. The selected Chinese dietary culture variables were much more important predictors than subjective norm. This study makes a significant contribution in the application of the TPB model and in market strategy development for imported dietary supplements in China. DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// DO - 10.1111/j.1470-6431.2010.00959.x VL - 35 IS - 6 SP - 661–669 KW - Chinese dietary culture KW - dine-out sociability KW - soy-based dietary supplements KW - soyfoods favourability KW - Theory of Planned Behavior (TPB) ER - TY - JOUR TI - Adapting lean manufacturing principles to the textile industry AU - Hodge, G.L. AU - Ross, K.G. AU - Joines, J.A. AU - Thoney, K.A. T2 - Production Planning & Control Special Issue on Challenges in Apparel Production, Planning and Control AB - A research project was conducted to determine which lean principles are appropriate for implementation in the textile industry. Lean manufacturing involves a variety of principles and techniques, all of which have the same ultimate goal: to eliminate waste and non-value-added activities at every production or service process in order to give the most satisfaction to the customer. To stay competitive, many US textile manufacturers have sought to improve their manufacturing processes so that they can more readily compete with overseas manufacturers. This study identifies the different tools and principles of lean. The use of lean manufacturing in the textile industry was examined in this research through interviews, plant tours and case studies. A model for implementing lean tools and principles in a textile environment was developed. DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// DO - 10.1080/09537287.2010.498577 VL - 22 IS - 3 SP - 237–247 KW - lean manufacturing KW - textiles KW - value stream mapping ER - TY - JOUR TI - The impact of market orientation on Chinese retailers’ channel relationships AU - Chung, J.-E. AU - Huang, Y. AU - Jin, B. AU - Sternquist, B. T2 - Journal of Business and Industrial Marketing AB - Purpose This study seeks to examine the influence of market orientation on Chinese buyer‐supplier relations. A model is proposed depicting relationships among retailer market orientation, supplier market intelligence, supplier role performance, and retailer economic and social satisfaction. Design/methodology/approach Data were collected from 99 chain store buyers and managers from 25 cities in China. Structural equation modeling was used to analyze the data. Findings A retailer's market orientation is critical for its own economic and social satisfaction by increasing supplier market intelligence (MI) and supplier role performance. Practical implications Retailers' MO increased supplier MI and role performance. This study found that economic performance was more important in channel relationships than social relationships. Therefore, suppliers should focus on improving retailers' economic satisfaction through role performance and market intelligence rather than social satisfaction. Originality/value Previous MO literature has focused primarily on the firm's performance and ignored the interactive aspect of business performance among channel members. The current study fills this gap by demonstrating the significant influences of retailer MO on supplier MI and on supplier role performance, as well as on retailer satisfaction – both the economic and social components. To the authors' knowledge, the current study is the first to relate retailer MO, supplier MI, and supplier role performance to two types of retailer satisfaction – i.e. economic and social satisfaction. DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// DO - 10.1108/08858621111097175 VL - 26 IS - 1 SP - 14–25 KW - Retailers KW - Suppliers KW - Market orientation KW - China ER - TY - JOUR TI - Purchase intentions of Chinese consumers toward a U.S. apparel brand: A test of composite behavioral intention model AU - Jin, B. AU - Kang, J.H. T2 - Journal of Consumer Marketing AB - Purpose The purpose of this article is to assist US apparel firms to successfully market in China. It aims to accurately predict Chinese consumers' purchase intentions toward a US brand. For this purpose, it proposes a composite model incorporating two behavioral intention models, Lee's model and decomposed Ajzen's model, and empirically tests the composite model. Design/methodology/approach A total of 747 consumer data were collected in three cities of China, Shanghai, Beijing, and Guangzhou, utilizing a series of mall intercept method at two levels of shopping malls in each city. Findings Among the proposed direct paths to purchase intention (PI), attitude toward the US brand apparel was the most important in explaining contemporary Chinese consumers' purchase intentions, followed by external perceived behavioral control (PBC) and subjective norm (SN). Two Confucian values, face saving and group conformity, did not directly affect PI at all, and face saving only influenced PI indirectly through the increase of attitude toward US brand apparel. Among external PBC (one's controllability toward a purchase) and internal PBC (one's self‐efficacy), only external PBC led to PI. Practical implications By examining the two aspects of PBC, the study validated the importance of consumers' resource controllability (i.e. external PBC) in Chinese purchase behaviors in the midst of rapid socioeconomic changes. This approach advances previous studies that primarily viewed PBC as one dimension. Originality/value The paper is one of earliest endeavors to consider the decomposed PBC in a composite model. Also, the paper provides early proof that external PBC is more important than internal PBC in purchase contexts. DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// DO - 10.1108/07363761111127617 VL - 28 IS - 3 SP - 187–199 ER - TY - JOUR TI - Motivations of market mavens participating in online communities AU - Kim, H.-S. AU - Jin, B. AU - Park, J.Y. T2 - International Journal of Electronic Marketing and Retailing AB - Online communities provide a virtual space for consumers to communicate and interact with an unlimited number of people allowing for faster rates of information sharing in unprecedented ways. Market mavens are word-of-mouth agents who are influential in providing general shopping and marketplace information. This study examines how market mavenism may influence consumer motivations to participate in online communities. In addition, this study examines how market mavenism in conjunction with online participation motivations directly influences participation in consumer-based online communities. Data were collected from a convenience sample using an electronic survey in South Korea. Items measuring market mavenism, participation motivation, participation frequency, and participation quality were used. Confirmatory factor analysis, correlation analysis, and regression analysis were used to study the research questions. Results indicate a positive relationship between market mavenism and online participation motivations leading to the conclusion that consumers with market mavenism tendencies are also highly motivated to participate online. Results also confirm that market mavenism positively affects the frequency and quality of participation in consumer-based online communities. These results provide better understanding of why consumers with higher market mavenism tendencies may participate in online communities. DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// DO - 10.1504/ijemr.2011.039897 VL - 4 IS - 1 SP - 62–79 ER - TY - JOUR TI - In-group preference as opportunism governance in a collectivist culture: Evidence from Korean retail buyer-supplier relationships AU - Chung, J.-E. AU - Jin, B. T2 - Journal of Business and Industrial Marketing AB - Purpose The purpose of this paper is to examine whether preference toward in‐group members can serve as opportunism governance in channel relationships in a collectivist culture. This study proposes a model of opportunism incorporating in‐group preference and trust as antecedents of opportunism. Based on Transaction Cost Economics and Social Exchange Theory, transaction‐specific investment and relationship length are employed in the model as confounding variables of in‐group preference for opportunism and trust. Design/methodology/approach Data were collected from 109 Korean department store buyers and analyzed using Structural Equation Modeling (EQS 6.0). Findings The results showed that buyers' in‐group preference increased buyers' trust toward suppliers and decreased suppliers' opportunistic behavior. Buyers' increased trust toward suppliers was found to reduce suppliers' opportunistic behavior. Further, Trust was significantly influenced by supplier TSI, but not by length of relationship. On the other hand, opportunism was significantly influenced by length of relationship, but not by supplier TSI. Research limitations/implications This study examined only the positive side of in‐group membership. Some criticisms of in‐group preference are favoritism, interference with fair competition, and collective blindness, any of which might decrease the efficiency of business operations. These impacts should be examined to gain a balanced view of the implications of in‐group preference in business settings. Practical implications Multinational companies should understand that in‐group membership is an important source of building trust and oppressing opportunism in the Korean market. Multinational companies can strategically approach in‐group members of business partners to become members of those in‐groups. Originality/value This is the first empirical study to examine collectivists' tendencies toward in‐group preference as opportunism governance. DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// DO - 10.1108/08858621111126983 VL - 26 IS - 4 SP - 237–249 KW - Transaction costs KW - Buyers KW - South Korea ER - TY - JOUR TI - Doing business with China: Curriculum internationalization through an infusion method AU - Jin, B. AU - Swinney, J. AU - Cao, H. AU - Muske, G. AU - Nam, J. AU - Kang, J.H. T2 - Innovations in Education and Teaching International AB - The US apparel and textiles industry operates within an interdependent global system, necessitating workforces competent for day‐to‐day operations. The US workforce lacks preparedness in working globally; this study tests an infusion method of curriculum internationalisation to enhance students' global understanding. Four cognitive and experiential instructional modules focused on China were developed and infused into four existing courses at a US university. Pre‐ and post‐test assessment of students' understanding in each module revealed that the number of correct answers was increased nearly fifteen percent across modules after implementation. The developed modules and implementation were assessed very favourably by the participants. DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// DO - 10.1080/14703297.2011.564012 VL - 48 IS - 2 SP - 171–181 KW - global understanding KW - infusion method KW - China KW - curriculum internationalisation KW - assessment ER - TY - CHAP TI - Fast fashion business model: What, why and how? AU - Jin, B. AU - Chang, H.J. AU - Matthews, D. AU - Gupta, M. T2 - Fashion Supply Chain Management: Industry and Business Analysis A2 - Choi, T.-M. AB - The greatest difficulty any apparel company encounters is managing demand uncertainty and controlling strategic consumer behaviors (consumers’ propensity to delay purchase intentionally until a sale occurs). Fast fashion retailers, however, have overcome these challenges by supplying the small quantities of latest fashion with agility, which has resulted in profitable revenue gains. This paper reviews what a fast fashion model is, why a fast fashion business model is becoming prominent in today’s apparel business, and how the supply chain is managed in a fast fashion business model. By examining the operation strategies of two successful fast fashion retailers (Zara and H&M), this study concludes with the elements of the fast fashion business model that can be effectively adopted by fashion retailers and future of fast fashion business model. PY - 2011/// DO - 10.4018/978-1-60960-756-2.ch011 SP - 193–211 PB - IGI Global ER - TY - CONF TI - Measuring and Understanding Change Recipients’ Buy-In During Lean Transformation Program AU - Mazur, L. AU - Rothenberg, L. AU - McCreery, J. T2 - IIE Annual Conference C2 - 2011/5// C3 - Proceedings of the Industrial Engineering Research Conference DA - 2011/5// ER - TY - CONF TI - Exploring the Power of Social Networks and Leadership Styles During Lean Program Implementation in Hospitals AU - McCreery, J. AU - Mazur, L. AU - Rothenberg, L. T2 - IIE Annual Conference C2 - 2011/5// C3 - Proceedings of the Industrial Engineering Research Conference DA - 2011/5// UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?eid=2-s2.0-84900337277&partnerID=MN8TOARS ER - TY - CHAP TI - Color and Weave Relationship in Woven Fabrics AU - Mathur, K. AU - Seyam, A.M. T2 - Advances in Modern Woven Fabrics Technology A2 - Vassiliadis, Savvas AB - In woven designs from colored threads, a colored pattern is a consequence of two possible arrangements where warp is over the weft or vice versa. Thus the primary elements of woven fabric design are combination of weaves and blending of colors using such weaves. Weave is the scheme or plan of interlacing the warp and weft yarns that produce the integrated fabric. Weave relates specially to the build or structure of the fabric. Color is differently related to effects of weave and form. The methods of utilization of color in woven textiles depend upon the composition of the weave design to be woven and the structure parameters of the cloth. Color and ornamentation in woven fabrics is imparted through the pre-determined placement and interlacing of particular sequences of yarns. A solid color is produced by employing the same color in warp and weft. On the other hand, different colors may be combined to produce either a mixed or intermingled color effect in which the composite hue appears as a solid color. Figured ornamentation is created through the selection of different groups of colored yarns, placed in the warp and/or in the weft; while in certain patterns, textural effects may be created entirely through the use of different values and closely associated hues of certain colors. The figure is formed for the purpose of displaying different pattern formations, adding dimension or color reinforcement and for enhancing a particular motif. Modern CAD systems provide a variety of design tools that are supported by standardized color databases that allow simulation of weave structures on the computer monitor that could be printed on paper. However, deviations of the color values of these simulations still occur. Also, the color on fully flat fabric simulations on paper or computer screen is twodimensional that differs from the real three-dimensional nature of fabrics and yarns. In textile wet processing, the uses of colorimetry systems and associated software have proven their worth over the years, in objective estimation of color, and have minimized misunderstandings between textile manufacturers and their customers. However, color communication within textile design is largely a subjective process. Recent experimental studies (Osaki 2002; Dimitrovski & Gabrijelcic 2001, 2002, 2004) have revealed that the use of colorimetry has helped to achieve better reproducibility and accuracy in the shade matching of textiles products. Colorimetry is, however, less used when fabrics are made from colored PY - 2011/// DO - 10.5772/20856 PB - InTech SN - 978-953-307-337-8 ER - TY - JOUR TI - Innovative and complementary approaches to enhancing elders? ability to age in place AU - Ballard, S. M. AU - Jenkins, C. AU - Savut, N. Y. AU - McKinnon, N. H. AU - Carroll, K. AU - Escott-Stump, S. T2 - Journal of Family and Consumer Sciences DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// VL - 103 IS - 2 SP - 24-34 ER - TY - JOUR TI - Drape simulation of three-dimensional virtual garment enabling fabric properties AU - Lim, Hosun AU - Istook, Cynthia L. T2 - Fibers and Polymers DA - 2011/12// PY - 2011/12// DO - 10.1007/s12221-011-1077-1 VL - 12 IS - 8 SP - 1077-1082 J2 - Fibers Polym LA - en OP - SN - 1229-9197 1875-0052 UR - http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s12221-011-1077-1 DB - Crossref KW - Three-dimensional virtual garment KW - Drape simulation KW - Virtual fabric KW - Fabric properties KW - FAST system ER - TY - JOUR TI - Analytical techniques for measuring toxic industrial chemicals in CBRN boot materials AU - Bradham, A. E. AU - Beck, K. R. AU - Thompson, D. B. AU - Barker, R. L. AU - Montero, G. A. AU - Deaton, A. S. T2 - AATCC Review DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// VL - 11 IS - 6 SP - 67-72 ER - TY - JOUR TI - Modeling tortuosity in thin fibrous porous media using computational fluid dynamics AU - Vallabh, R. AU - Ducoste, J. AU - Seyam, Abdel-Fattah AU - Banks-Leel, P. T2 - Journal of Porous Media AB - Eulerian and Lagrangian computational models to predict tortuosity of fibrous porous media were developed using computational fluid dynamics (CFD). The first computation model involved an intermediate step in which air permeability of fibrous porous media was simulated using CFD. Three-dimensional geometries used in these models were generated in ANSYS to simulate fibrous porous microstructure. The proposed computational models were found to be in good agreement with numerical models available in the literature when predicting the relationship between tortuosity and porosity of fibrous media. The proposed models also showed that transverse flow through a fibrous porous media becomes less tortuous with increasing porosity, with the tortuosity value approaching 1 at the upper limits of porosity. While other models found in the literature have expressed tortuosity as a function of porosity only, the proposed computational models show that in addition to the porosity other structural parameters such as fiber diameter and fiberweb thickness have a significant influence on tortuosity. Within the range of small fiberweb thickness, tortuosity was found to asymptotically increase with increasing fiberweb thickness. DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// DO - 10.1615/jpormedia.v14.i9.40 VL - 14 IS - 9 SP - 791–804 ER - TY - JOUR TI - Gibbs Free Energy of Liquid Drops on Conical Fibers AU - Michielsen, Stephen AU - Zhang, Jinlin AU - Du, Jinmei AU - Lee, Hoon Joo T2 - LANGMUIR AB - Small drops can move spontaneously on conical fibers. As a drop moves along the cone, it must change shape to maintain a constant volume, and thus, it must change its surface energy. Simultaneously, the exposed surface area of the underlying cone must also change. The associated surface energies should balance each other, and the drop should stop moving when it reaches a location where the free energy is a minimum. In this paper, a minimum Gibbs free energy analysis has been performed to predict where a drop will stop on a conical fiber. To obtain the Gibbs free energies of a drop at different locations of a conical fiber, the theoretical expressions for the shape of a droplet on a conical fiber are derived by extending Carroll's equations for a drop on a cylindrical fiber. The predicted Gibbs free energy exhibits a minimum along the length of the cone. For a constant cone angle, as the contact angle between the liquid and the cone increases, the drop will move toward the apex of the cone. Likewise, for a constant contact angle, as the cone angle increases, the drop moves toward the apex. Experiments in which water and dodecane were placed on glass cones verify these dependencies. Thus, the final location of a drop on a conical fiber can be predicted on the basis of the geometry and surface energy of the cone, the surface tension and volume of the liquid, and the original location where the drop was deposited. DA - 2011/10/4/ PY - 2011/10/4/ DO - 10.1021/la202952e VL - 27 IS - 19 SP - 11867-11872 SN - 0743-7463 ER - TY - JOUR TI - Effect of relative rubbing speed on the tribo-electrification of continuous filament yarn by stainless steel pins AU - Liu, Lu AU - Oxenham, William AU - Seyam, Abdelfattah M. AU - Theyson, Thomas T2 - JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE AB - The effect of relative rubbing speed on the tribo‐electrification between different continuous filament yarns and stainless steel “charging pins” was analysed. A modified linear tester, housed in an environmental room, was used to charge the yarn while transporting at desired speed and input tension. The yarn was rubbed against the charging pin, which was also rotated at different speeds. The yarn surface charge, yarn output tension and charging pin’s vibration were monitored in real time automatically. The results showed that for nylon yarn charge was minimized when the yarn/pin relative speed approached zero, regardless of the absolute rubbing speeds of yarn and pin. It was also found that, at the same relative speed, less charge was generated when a larger pin was used. For finish‐free nylon yarn, the charge was also minimized as the relative speed approaches zero; however, for finish‐free polyester yarn and finish‐free polypropylene yarn, the effect of relative rubbing speed on the electrification was not very significant. DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// DO - 10.1080/00405000.2010.536390 VL - 102 IS - 12 SP - 1075-1085 SN - 1754-2340 KW - tribo-electrification KW - rubbing speed KW - coefficient of friction KW - vibration KW - electrostatic control ER - TY - JOUR TI - A study of the drafting force in roller drafting and its influence on sliver irregularity AU - Lin, Qian AU - Oxenham, William AU - Yu, Chongwen T2 - JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE AB - Abstract Drafting force is the direct and intuitive factor resulting in fiber motion in a drafting zone. Utilizing data collected from an ITT Draftometer, this paper discusses the effect of draft ratio and ratch in both the break and the main draft zones on drafting force and the coefficient of variation (CV) of drafting force, and how these in turn affect sliver and yarn irregularity. It is shown that: the draft settings in the break draft zone have a significant effect on the drafting force; the break draft ratio shows distinct relationship with sliver irregularity; the ratch in the main drafting zone has considerable influence on drafting force; and in the experiments reported the drafting force does not directly relate to final yarn irregularity. Keywords: drafting forceCV of drafting forcedraftometerbreak draftmain draftsliver and yarn irregularity Acknowledgements The authors would like to take this opportunity to express their sincere gratitude to Timothy Pleasants, Dzung Nguyen, and Teresa White from College of Textiles in North Carolina State University for supplying the materials and for assisting with our experiments. DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// DO - 10.1080/00405000.2010.529284 VL - 102 IS - 11 SP - 994-1001 SN - 0040-5000 KW - drafting force KW - CV of drafting force KW - draftometer KW - break draft KW - main draft KW - sliver and yarn irregularity ER - TY - JOUR TI - Hybrid coaxial electrospun nanofibrous scaffolds with limited immunological response created for tissue engineering AU - Gluck, J. M. AU - Rahgozar, P. AU - Ingle, N. P. AU - Rofail, F. AU - Petrosian, A. AU - Cline, M. G. AU - Jordan, M. C. AU - Roos, K. P. AU - MacLellan, W. R. AU - Shemin, R. J. AU - Heydarkhan-Hagvall, S. T2 - Journal of Biomedical Materials Research. Part B, Applied Biomaterials DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// VL - 99B IS - 1 SP - 180-190 ER - TY - JOUR TI - Comparison of three methods for generating superhydrophobic, superoleophobic nylon nonwoven surfaces AU - Saraf, Rahul AU - Lee, Hoon Joo AU - Michielsen, Stephen AU - Owens, Jeffery AU - Willis, Colin AU - Stone, Corinne AU - Wilusz, Eugene T2 - JOURNAL OF MATERIALS SCIENCE DA - 2011/9// PY - 2011/9// DO - 10.1007/s10853-011-5530-8 VL - 46 IS - 17 SP - 5751-5760 SN - 0022-2461 ER - TY - JOUR TI - Intelligent design systems for apparel mass customization AU - Satam, Dnyanada AU - Liu, Yan AU - Lee, Hoon Joo T2 - JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE AB - Abstract To deal with the challenges of shortened product life cycle while considering various trends and consumers’ demands, several companies have begun to explore mass customization. In this paper, we study the economic factors leading to mass customization, review the advanced technologies and develop a new process of computer‐aided design (CAD) for effective mass customization. To define the purchasing patterns of the consumers, we analyze the statistical data of the world economy, consumer expenditures and online sales in the apparel sector. We also use statistical information about employment and labor cost in the textile industry to understand growing interest in mass customization. Based on our understanding of the advanced technologies developed for mass customization, we offer two potential ways to facilitate the design personalization in the entire process of apparel mass customization: two‐dimensional and three‐dimensional computer‐aided garment intelligent design systems. By developing a new CAD system that provides a versatile selection of styles and fits for apparel production processes, the efficiency of mass customization can be improved in the apparel industry. Keywords: mass customizationapparelcomputer‐aided design (CAD) Acknowledgement We appreciate the support by US Army Natick Soldier Research, Development, and Engineering (RD&E) Center for giving us an opportunity to extend this intelligent design technology for development of the mass customized military uniforms. Notes DA - 2011/// PY - 2011/// DO - 10.1080/00405000.2010.482351 VL - 102 IS - 4 SP - 353-365 SN - 1754-2340 KW - mass customization KW - apparel KW - computer-aided design (CAD) ER - TY - JOUR TI - Modeling and preparation of a super-oleophobic non-woven fabric AU - Lee, Hoon Joo AU - Willis, Colin R. AU - Stone, Corinne A. T2 - JOURNAL OF MATERIALS SCIENCE DA - 2011/6// PY - 2011/6// DO - 10.1007/s10853-011-5314-1 VL - 46 IS - 11 SP - 3907-3913 SN - 1573-4803 ER - TY - JOUR TI - Structure and Tensile Properties of Nanoclay-Polypropylene Fibers Produced by Melt Spinning AU - Rangasamy, Loganathan AU - Shim, Eunkyoung AU - Pourdeyhimi, Behnam T2 - JOURNAL OF APPLIED POLYMER SCIENCE AB - Abstract Nanocomposite fibers of polypropylene and montmorillonite‐based organoclay were produced by a melt‐spinning process, and their structures and mechanical properties were studied. The addition of nanoclay in polypropylene increased the rate of crystallization and altered the microstructures of the fibers. Increases in the crystal size and a reduction in the molecular orientation were observed in the nanoclay–polypropylene composite fibers. The tensile properties of nanoclay composite fibers were also studied, and decreases in the fiber modulus and tenacity and increases in the strain at break were observed. © 2011 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci, 2011 DA - 2011/7/5/ PY - 2011/7/5/ DO - 10.1002/app.33619 VL - 121 IS - 1 SP - 410-419 SN - 0021-8995 KW - additives KW - extrusion KW - fibers KW - nanocomposites KW - poly(propylene) (PP) ER - TY - JOUR TI - Effects of Porosity, Fiber Size, and Layering Sequence on Sound Absorption Performance of Needle-Punched Nonwovens AU - Yilmaz, Nazire Deniz AU - Banks-Lee, Pamela AU - Powell, Nancy B. AU - Michielsen, Stephen T2 - JOURNAL OF APPLIED POLYMER SCIENCE AB - Abstract The relationships between the material parameters, i.e., the fiber fineness, porosity, areal density, layering sequence, and airflow resistivity with the normal‐incidence sound absorption coefficient of nonwoven composites consisting of three layers have been studied. The monofiber or multifiber needle‐punched nonwovens included poly(lactic acid) (PLA), polypropylene (PP), glass fiber, and hemp fibers. Air flow resistivity was statistically modeled and was found to increase with decreasing fiber size and nonwoven porosity. The former models developed for glass fiber mats in the literature were found to be inconsistent with the air flow resistance of the nonwovens reported below. The effects of the layering sequence on air flow resistivity and sound absorption were obtained. It was found that when the layer including reinforcement fibers, i.e., hemp or glass fiber, faced the air flow/sound source, the air flow resistance and the absorption coefficient were higher than the case when the layer including reinforcement fibers was farthest from the air flow/sound source. The difference was more pronounced if there was a greater difference between the resistivity values of the constituent layers of the nonwoven composite. Sound absorption coefficient was statistically modeled in terms of air flow resistivity and frequency. © 2011 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci, 2011 DA - 2011/9/5/ PY - 2011/9/5/ DO - 10.1002/app.33312 VL - 121 IS - 5 SP - 3056-3069 SN - 1097-4628 KW - airflow resistivity KW - sound absorption KW - fibers biodegradable KW - renewable resources ER - TY - JOUR TI - Polypropylene Surface Modification with Stearyl Alcohol Ethoxylates to Enhance Wettability AU - Datla, Vasantha M. AU - Shim, Eunkyoung AU - Pourdeyhimi, Behnam T2 - JOURNAL OF APPLIED POLYMER SCIENCE AB - Stearyl alcohol ethoxylated additives were melt-blended in polypropylene (PP) films, and the characteristics of the modified films were investigated. The melt blending of stearyl alcohol ethoxylates improved the hydrophilicity of the PP films through additive surface segregation. Surface specific techniques, such as X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and time-of-flight secondary-ion mass spectrometry, were used to study the surface compositions of the samples modified with ethoxylated additives. This revealed that the surface concentrations of the additives were significantly higher than the bulk concentrations in all samples. In addition, the surface compositions of the additive-modified samples continuously changed, even after the films were fully solidified. We also found that the resulting surface characteristics were very dynamic, so the melt-additive-containing polymer surfaces responded to water exposure, and their surface properties and morphologies were altered as a result. © 2011 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci, 2011 DA - 2011/8/5/ PY - 2011/8/5/ DO - 10.1002/app.31051 VL - 121 IS - 3 SP - 1335-1347 SN - 0021-8995 KW - additives KW - blends KW - poly(propylene) (PP) KW - surfaces ER - TY - JOUR TI - Motion of liquid droplets on a superhydrophobic oleophobic surface AU - Lee, Hoon Joo AU - Owens, Jeffery R. T2 - JOURNAL OF MATERIALS SCIENCE DA - 2011/1// PY - 2011/1// DO - 10.1007/s10853-010-4810-z VL - 46 IS - 1 SP - 69-76 SN - 0022-2461 ER - TY - JOUR TI - Formation of novel thermoplastic composites using bicomponent nonwovens as a precursor AU - Dasdemir, Mehmet AU - Maze, Benoit AU - Anantharamaiah, Nagendra AU - Pourdeyhimi, Behnam T2 - JOURNAL OF MATERIALS SCIENCE DA - 2011/5// PY - 2011/5// DO - 10.1007/s10853-010-5214-9 VL - 46 IS - 10 SP - 3269-3281 SN - 1573-4803 ER - TY - JOUR TI - Atomic layer deposition of titanium dioxide on cellulose acetate for enhanced hemostasis AU - Hyde, G. Kevin AU - Stewart, S. Michael AU - Scarel, Giovanna AU - Parsons, Gregory N. AU - Shih, Chun-Che AU - Shih, Chun-Ming AU - Lin, Shing-Jong AU - Su, Yea-Yang AU - Monteiro-Riviere, Nancy A. AU - Narayan, Roger J. T2 - BIOTECHNOLOGY JOURNAL AB - TiO₂ films may be used to alter the wettability and hemocompatibility of cellulose materials. In this study, pure and stoichiometric TiO₂ films were grown using atomic layer deposition on both silicon and cellulose substrates. The films were grown with uniform thicknesses and with a growth rate in agreement with literature results. The TiO₂ films were shown to profoundly alter the water contact angle values of cellulose in a manner dependent upon processing characteristics. Higher amounts of protein adsorption indicated by blurry areas on images generated by scanning electron microscopy were noted on TiO₂ -coated cellulose acetate than on uncoated cellulose acetate. These results suggest that atomic layer deposition is an appropriate method for improving the biological properties of hemostatic agents and other blood-contacting biomaterials. DA - 2011/2// PY - 2011/2// DO - 10.1002/biot.201000342 VL - 6 IS - 2 SP - 213-223 SN - 1860-7314 KW - Biomaterials KW - Cellulose KW - Hemocompatibility KW - Hemostatic agent KW - Titanium oxide ER - TY - JOUR TI - Preparation of highly hydrophobic and oleophobic textile surfaces using microwave-promoted silane coupling AU - Hayn, Ryan A. AU - Owens, Jeffery R. AU - Boyer, Stephanie A. AU - McDonald, Rashelle S. AU - Lee, Hoon Joo T2 - JOURNAL OF MATERIALS SCIENCE DA - 2011/4// PY - 2011/4// DO - 10.1007/s10853-010-5100-5 VL - 46 IS - 8 SP - 2503-2509 SN - 1573-4803 ER -