@article{mitasova_drake_bernstein_harmon_2004, title={Quantifying rapid changes in coastal topography using modern mapping techniques and Geographic Information System}, volume={10}, ISSN={["1558-9161"]}, url={http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?eid=2-s2.0-1942466461&partnerID=MN8TOARS}, DOI={10.2113/10.1.1}, abstractNote={Innovative methodology based on a combination of real-time kinematic Global Positioning System (RTK-GPS), light detection and ranging (lidar), and open-source Geographic Information System (GIS) was developed to gain a better understanding of rapid changes in coastal topography. Improved spatial interpolation techniques were implemented to produce detailed topographic surfaces from lidar and RTK-GPS data. The methodology is demonstrated for two North Carolina areas: Jockey's Ridge State Park and Bald Head Island. The Jockey's Ridge study quantifies recent dune movement and identifies areas of elevation loss and rapid horizontal migration that threaten existing infrastructure. The Bald Head Island study examines pre- and post-nourishment beach evolution. The dynamics of beach topography, its geometric properties, and estimates of both eroded and deposited sand volumes were determined by combining lidar elevation data (1997–2000) with quarterly RTK-GPS measurements. Spatio-temporal analysis confirms the relative stability of the central ‘pivot point’ beach section and reveals that the beach changed its shape from convex west of the pivot point to concave east of the pivot point during the period of 1997 to 1998 and reversed shapes during year 2000. The pivot point also divides the beach into two sections that exhibit markedly different responses to nourishment. Although the entire length of nourished beach retreated, the analysis reveals that in the western section, all nourished sand off-shore was lost, whereas in the eastern section, significant sand volume was pushed up onto the beach, creating potential for recovery.}, number={1}, journal={ENVIRONMENTAL & ENGINEERING GEOSCIENCE}, author={Mitasova, H and Drake, TG and Bernstein, D and Harmon, RS}, year={2004}, month={Feb}, pages={1–11} } @article{ardhuin_drake_herbers_2002, title={Observations of wave-generated vortex ripples on the North Carolina continental shelf}, volume={107}, number={C10}, journal={Journal of Geophysical Research. Oceans}, author={Ardhuin, F. and Drake, T. G. and Herbers, T. H. C.}, year={2002}, pages={3143–1} } @article{drake_calantoni_2001, title={Discrete particle model for sheet flow sediment transport in the nearshore}, volume={106}, ISSN={["2169-9291"]}, DOI={10.1029/2000JC000611}, abstractNote={Fully three‐dimensional discrete particle computer simulations of high‐concentration sheet flow transport in oscillatory flows quantify the effect of fluid acceleration on bed load transport in highly unsteady flows typical of nearshore marine environments. A simple impulse‐momentum approach explains simulation results and forms the basis for adding an acceleration‐related term to widely used energetics sediment transport formulae. Transport predicted by the acceleration term becomes increasingly significant as wave shape approaches the sawtooth profile characteristic of surf zone bores. Simulations integrate F = ma and a corresponding set of equations for the torques for each sphere. Normal and tangential forces between contacting particles are linear functions of the distance between sphere centers and the relative tangential displacement at the contact point, respectively; particle interactions are both inelastic and frictional. Pressure gradient forces generated by the passage of surface gravity waves drive fluid and particle motion in a stack of thin horizontal fluid layers that exchange momentum and exert fluid drag, added mass, and buoyancy forces on particles. Transport properties of the simulated granular‐fluid assemblage are robust to large variations in material properties of the particles. Simulated transport rates agree with available experimental data for unsteady transport of coarse sands; the mode of bed load motion, dispersion of bed load particles, and particle segregation by size and density are qualitatively consistent with available particle‐scale observations of bed load transport of natural particles.}, number={C9}, journal={JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH-OCEANS}, author={Drake, TG and Calantoni, J}, year={2001}, month={Sep}, pages={19859–19868} } @misc{drake_1999, title={Against the tide the battle for America's beaches}, volume={285}, number={5433}, journal={Science}, author={Drake, T.}, year={1999}, pages={1497} }