@article{xia_li_istook_west_bruner_2024, title={A regression waist level defined for 3D body scans}, volume={6}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2024.2366705}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Xia, Sibei and Li, Jiayin and Istook, Cynthia L. and West, Andre J. and Bruner, David}, year={2024}, month={Jun} }
 @article{ling_liu_yin_west_2024, title={An eco-friendly droplet-wet spinning technology for producing high-quality hemp/cotton blend yarn}, volume={475}, ISSN={["1879-1786"]}, url={https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2024.143689}, DOI={10.1016/j.jclepro.2024.143689}, journal={JOURNAL OF CLEANER PRODUCTION}, author={Ling, Yali and Liu, Yang and Yin, Rong and West, Andre}, year={2024}, month={Oct} }
 @article{youn_mills_west_denhartog_mathur_2024, title={Enhancing Biosignal Quality in Electrocardiogram Monitoring Garments: Validation of a Simulation-Based Contact Pressure Model}, volume={2}, ISSN={["2771-9545"]}, url={https://doi.org/10.1021/acsaenm.4c00178}, DOI={10.1021/acsaenm.4c00178}, abstractNote={Optimizing contact pressure in a biomonitoring garment system is crucial to improving signal quality by reducing skin impedance and motion artifacts. Building upon previous research, which introduced a strategic methodology for enhancing electrocardiogram (ECG) biosignal quality through material selection and pattern sizing guided by a developed simulation-based contact pressure prediction model (CP model), this study investigates the model's efficacy across varied knits (plain, interlock, plaited single jersey, and plaited interlock) and yarn filament densities to design a more complex ECG chest band. In this study, our CP model demonstrated strong predictive capabilities with R-squared values exceeding 0.87, which are compatible with physical uniaxial tensile test-based prediction showing an R-squared value of 0.88. Our selected appropriate knit substrates (single jersey and interlock plaiting knit) for pattern reduction values of 20 and 5%, respectively, for designing ECG elastic chest bands result in enhanced biosignal quality with signal-to-noise ratios (SNRs) of 42.85 (±0.08) and 40.92 (±0.06), respectively, comparable to the wet electrode with an SNR of 40.02 (±0.32). This study confirms that selected appropriate materials and patterns can significantly enhance ECG signal quality by optimizing contact pressure to the ideal range of at least 0.53 to 1.05 kPa under the chest area, as demonstrated with a female subject. These findings provide valuable insights into using textile-based electrodes in garment designs by strategically engineering contact pressure to mitigate motion artifacts with the CP model and simulation technique.}, number={6}, journal={ACS APPLIED ENGINEERING MATERIALS}, author={Youn, Seonyoung and Mills, Amanda C. and West, Andre and Denhartog, Emiel and Mathur, Kavita}, year={2024}, month={Jun}, pages={1640–1653} }
 @article{youn_west_mathur_2024, title={Evaluation of a new artificial intelligence-based textile digitization using fabric drape}, volume={4}, ISSN={["1746-7748"]}, url={https://doi.org/10.1177/00405175241236881}, DOI={10.1177/00405175241236881}, abstractNote={ Three-dimensional (3D) textile-based garment prototyping, widely adopted in the apparel and textile industry, enhances cost efficiency, work productivity, and seamless communication via visual prototyping. Neural network-based 3D textile digitization has the potential to streamline manufacturing processes by negating the need for traditional physical property (PT) measurements. However, a research gap exists concerning the accuracy of the technology and its applicability to advanced functional apparel manufacturing. The primary research question is to investigate how variations in digitized physical properties obtained from PT measurements and artificial intelligence (AI)-based textile digitization impact the accuracy of a fabric’s mechanical representation. In this study, we aimed to evaluate AI-based textile digitization accuracy using a drape test method. The drape coefficient (DC) analysis revealed that the PT-based simulated DC exhibited a normalized mean absolute error (NMAE) ranging from 2% to 11%, while the AI-based simulated DC showed a range of 3–51%. Notably, for the samples, except those with very limp or very stiff fabric samples, the AI-based simulation exhibited a NMAE within 3–15%. }, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={Youn, Seonyoung and West, Andre and Mathur, Kavita}, year={2024}, month={Apr} }
 @article{kirk_henson_seevers_liu_west_suchoff_yin_2023, title={A critical review of characterization and measurement of textile-grade hemp fiber}, volume={7}, ISSN={["1572-882X"]}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s10570-023-05420-4}, DOI={10.1007/s10570-023-05420-4}, journal={CELLULOSE}, author={Kirk, H. and Henson, C. and Seevers, R. and Liu, Y. and West, A. and Suchoff, D. and Yin, R.}, year={2023}, month={Jul} }
 @article{luan_newman_west_lee_rokkam_2023, title={Efficient Poisson's Ratio Evaluation of Weft-Knitted Auxetic Metamaterials}, volume={3}, ISSN={["2673-7248"]}, url={https://www.mdpi.com/2673-7248/3/3/18}, DOI={10.3390/textiles3030018}, abstractNote={Auxetic metamaterials expand transversely when stretched longitudinally or contract transversely when compressed, resulting in a negative Poisson’s ratio (NPR). Auxetic fabrics are 3D textile metamaterials possessing a unique geometry that can generate an auxetic response with respect to tension. In weft-knitted auxetic fabrics, the NPR property is achieved due to the inherent curling effect of the face and back stitches of the knit loops; they contract in an organized knitting pattern. The traditional method used to evaluate NPR is to measure the lateral fabric deformation during axial tensile testing on a mechanical testing machine, which is time-consuming and inaccurate in measuring uneven deformations. In this study, an efficient method was developed to evaluate the NPR of weft-knitted fabric that can also estimate deformation directionality. The elasticity and extension properties of the weft-knitted fabric can be analyzed immediately following removal from the knitting bed. Five fabrics, all with the same stitch densities (including four auxetic patterns and one single jersey pattern), were designed and produced to validate the proposed method. The use of our estimation method to evaluate the Poisson’s ratio of such fabrics showed higher values compared with the traditional method. In conclusion, the deformation directionality, elasticity, and extensionality were examined. It is anticipated that the proposed method could assist in the innovative development and deployment of auxetic knitted metamaterials.}, number={3}, journal={TEXTILES}, author={Luan, Kun and Newman, Zoe and West, Andre and Lee, Kuan-Lin and Rokkam, Srujan}, year={2023}, month={Sep}, pages={275–286} }
 @article{ling_hart_henson_west_kumar_karanjikar_yin_2023, title={Investigation of Hemp and Nylon Blended Long-Staple Yarns and Their Woven Fabrics}, volume={4}, ISSN={["1875-0052"]}, url={https://doi.org/10.1007/s12221-023-00180-1}, DOI={10.1007/s12221-023-00180-1}, journal={FIBERS AND POLYMERS}, author={Ling, Yali and Hart, Jacob and Henson, Claire and West, Andre and Kumar, Anjli and Karanjikar, Mukund and Yin, Rong}, year={2023}, month={Apr} }
 @article{luan_mccord_west_cave_travanty_apperson_roe_2023, title={Mosquito Blood Feeding Prevention Using an Extra-Low DC Voltage Charged Cloth}, volume={14}, ISSN={["2075-4450"]}, url={https://doi.org/10.3390/insects14050405}, DOI={10.3390/insects14050405}, abstractNote={Mosquito vector-borne diseases such as malaria and dengue pose a major threat to human health. Personal protection from mosquito blood feeding is mostly by treating clothing with insecticides and the use of repellents on clothing and skin. Here, we developed a low-voltage, mosquito-resistant cloth (MRC) that blocked all blood feeding across the textile and was flexible and breathable. The design was based on mosquito head and proboscis morphometrics, the development of a novel 3-D textile with the outer conductive layers insulated from each other with an inner, non-conductive woven mesh, and the use of a DC (direct current; extra-low-voltage) resistor-capacitor. Blockage of blood feeding was measured using host-seeking Aedes aegypti adult female mosquitoes and whether they could blood feed across the MRC and an artificial membrane. Mosquito blood feeding decreased as voltage increased from 0 to 15 volts. Blood feeding inhibition was 97.8% at 10 volts and 100% inhibition at 15 volts, demonstrating proof of concept. Current flow is minimal since conductance only occurs when the mosquito proboscis simultaneously touches the outside layers of the MRC and is then quickly repelled. Our results demonstrated for the first time the use of a biomimetic, mosquito-repelling technology to prevent blood feeding using extra-low energy consumption.}, number={5}, journal={INSECTS}, author={Luan, Kun and McCord, Marian G. and West, Andre J. and Cave, Grayson and Travanty, Nicholas V. and Apperson, Charles S. and Roe, R. Michael}, year={2023}, month={Apr} }
 @article{xia_li_istook_west_2022, title={A 2D image body measurement system developed with neural networks and a color-coded measurement garment}, volume={8}, ISSN={["1758-5953"]}, DOI={10.1108/IJCST-08-2021-0114}, abstractNote={PurposeTwo-dimensional (2D) measurement technology has become more popular than before, thanks to the widespread availability of smartphones and smart devices. However, most existing 2D body measurement systems have background constraints and may raise privacy concerns. The purpose of this research was to test the idea of designing a 2D measurement system that works with a color-coded measurement garment for background removal and privacy protection. Clothing consumers can use the proposed system for daily apparel shopping purposes.Design/methodology/approachA 2D body measurement system was designed and tested. The system adopted a close-fitted color-coded measurement garment and used neural network models to detect the color-code in the garment area and remove backgrounds. In total, 78 participants were recruited, and the collected data were split into training and testing sets. The training dataset was used to train the neural network and statistical prediction models for the 2D system. The testing dataset was used to compare the performance of the 2D system with a commercial three-dimensional (3D) body scanner.FindingsThe results showed that the color-coded measurement garment worked well with the neural network models to process the images for measurement extraction. The 2D measurement system worked better at close-fitted areas than loose-fitted areas.Originality/valueThis research combined a color-coded measurement garment with neural network models to solve the privacy and background challenges of the 2D body measurement system. Other researchers have never studied this approach.}, journal={INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CLOTHING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY}, author={Xia, Sibei and Li, Jiayin and Istook, Cynthia L. and West, Andre J.}, year={2022}, month={Aug} }
 @article{li_xia_west_istook_2022, title={Fashionable sportswear working as a body measurement collecting tool}, volume={3}, ISSN={["1758-5953"]}, DOI={10.1108/IJCST-07-2021-0090}, abstractNote={PurposeA two-dimensional (2D) body measurement system was implemented to study the application of sportswear design in measurement garment development. A total of 50 participants were recruited. The basic demographic information and sportswear preference data were collected through a survey to understand consumer preferences and acceptance of the new designs. The body measurements were collected through both the selected 2D measurement system and a commercial three-dimensional scanning booth to evaluate measurement accuracy.Design/methodology/approachFinding the right size has been a long-existing problem for clothing consumers. Size problem is the most common reason for e-commerce returns and adds a high cost for retailers. One possible solution is to offer consumers an easy-to-use method that extracts accurate body measurements to be used for clothing size selection. The purpose of this research is to apply sportswear design elements on measurement garments to see if consumers’ interest in using the 2D measurement system can be increased without influencing the measurement accuracy.FindingsThe results showed that the added design features increased consumers’ interest in using 2D body measuring technology without significantly influencing measurement accuracy.Originality/valueThis research applied sportswear elements to convert a 2D measurement bodysuit to a fashionable clothing product. The solution resolved users’ privacy concerns and increased their acceptance and use of the technology. Other studies have not focused on using aesthetic features to improve the 2D measurement technology.}, journal={INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF CLOTHING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY}, author={Li, Jiayin and Xia, Sibei and West, Andre J. and Istook, Cynthia L.}, year={2022}, month={Mar} }
 @article{luan_kirkwood_newman_west_denhartog_2022, title={New insight into the flexural rigidity of multi-filament yarn}, volume={8}, ISSN={["1746-7748"]}, url={https://doi.org/10.1177/00405175221114655}, DOI={10.1177/00405175221114655}, abstractNote={ Filament yarn is one of the most widely used soft strands in the textile industry; it exhibits excellent flexibility and is capable of being used in various productions, including knitting, weaving, braiding, sewing, and embroidery. The inherent complex interlacement between fibers, including twist, entanglement, and yarn geometry, often exhibits a nonlinear response to external loads. In addition, the interlacement of fibers also introduces difficulties when accurately measuring the flexural property of multi-filament yarn. In particular, the flexural rigidity of the yarn strongly influences the quality of end products when incorporated into novel textile technologies. In this paper, we developed a three-point bending instrument and a method for measuring the flexural rigidity of filament yarn. A representative point obeyed from Coplan’s construction on the bending constitutive curve was determined to obtain pure flexural rigidity. Furthermore, the bending process and deformations across cross-sections of filament yarns were discussed. The research provides new physical insights into the yarn bending property with the consideration of eliminating the sub-deformation variabilities. The work also paves the way for the accurate and quick measurement of the flexural rigidity of high length-to-width ratio soft materials by a three-point bending method. }, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={Luan, Kun and Kirkwood, Elizabeth and Newman, Zoe and West, Andre and DenHartog, Emiel}, year={2022}, month={Aug} }
 @article{cave_west_mccord_koene_beck_deguenon_luan_roe_2022, title={Novel 3-D Spacer Textiles to Protect Crops from Insect Infestation and That Enhance Plant Growth}, volume={12}, ISSN={["2077-0472"]}, url={https://doi.org/10.3390/agriculture12040498}, DOI={10.3390/agriculture12040498}, abstractNote={Pesticide-free, 3-D, spacer fabrics (Plant Armor Generation (PA Gen) 1 and 2) were investigated for proof-of-concept as an insect barrier to protect plants and improve plant agronomics for organic farming. The time to 50% penetration (TP50) for tobacco thrips, Frankliniella fusca (Hinds) adults in laboratory Petri dish bioassays was 30 and 175 min for PA Gen 1 and 2, respectively, and 12 min for the control (a commercially available, single layer-crop cover, Proteknet). PA Gen 2 was ≥90% resistant to penetration of unfed caterpillar neonates, Helicoverpa zea (Boddie), while the TP50‘s for Gen 1 and Proteknet were 3.1 and 2.35 h, respectively. In small cage studies, PA Gen 2 covered potted cabbage plants were 100% resistant to penetration by these insects through 10 d after which the study was ended. In small field plot studies for 3 summer months, cabbage plants grew approximately twice as fast when covered versus not covered with Gen 1 and Gen 2 without the need for insecticides or herbicides. This was not observed for the control crop cover. Martindale abrasion tests demonstrated Gen 1 and 2 were at least 6- and 1.8-fold more durable than the control crop cover used. Data are also presented on percentage light, water, air, and water vapor penetration across each textile and operational temperatures and humidity for cabbage plants covered and uncovered in small field plots.}, number={4}, journal={AGRICULTURE-BASEL}, publisher={MDPI AG}, author={Cave, Grayson L. and West, Andre J. and McCord, Marian G. and Koene, Bryan and Beck, J. Benjamin and Deguenon, Jean M. and Luan, Kun and Roe, R. Michael}, year={2022}, month={Apr} }
 @article{ling_henson_west_yin_2022, title={Systematic investigation and evaluation of modified ring yarns by feeding three-roving strands}, volume={11}, ISSN={["1746-7748"]}, url={https://doi.org/10.1177/00405175221139323}, DOI={10.1177/00405175221139323}, abstractNote={ Spinning is one of the major steps in textiles to convert staple fibers from either natural or synthetic sources into continuous and twisted yarns, and ring spinning has always been the dominant yarn technology since its invention. Recently, many ring-based modifications have been developed to improve yarn productivity and properties. In this work, a modified ring spinning technique has been developed by feeding three-roving strands into a conventional ring frame for producing yarns with better performance. A strand delivery guide with different spacings (1–5 mm) was used for the production of three-strand yarns. The quantitative relationships between the spinning parameters and yarn properties have been systematically investigated. The properties of the modified yarns were evaluated, including yarn tensile properties, evenness, and hairiness, and the statistical relationships were obtained by least squares polynomial fitting. The experimental results indicate that the guide spacing and twist multiplier significantly influence the yarn properties. The spinning triangle of the modified yarns resembles Solospun yarns, suggesting supreme yarn abrasion performance. }, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={Ling, Yali and Henson, Claire and West, Andre and Yin, Rong}, year={2022}, month={Nov} }
 @article{luan_west_mccord_denhartog_shi_bettermann_li_travanty_mitchell_cave_et al._2021, title={Mosquito-Textile Physics: A Mathematical Roadmap to Insecticide-Free, Bite-Proof Clothing for Everyday Life}, volume={12}, ISSN={2075-4450}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/insects12070636}, DOI={10.3390/insects12070636}, abstractNote={Garments treated with chemical insecticides are commonly used to prevent mosquito bites. Resistance to insecticides, however, is threatening the efficacy of this technology, and people are increasingly concerned about the potential health impacts of wearing insecticide-treated clothing. Here, we report a mathematical model for fabric barriers that resist bites from Aedes aegypti mosquitoes based on textile physical structure and no insecticides. The model was derived from mosquito morphometrics and analysis of mosquito biting behavior. Woven filter fabrics, precision polypropylene plates, and knitted fabrics were used for model validation. Then, based on the model predictions, prototype knitted textiles and garments were developed that prevented mosquito biting, and comfort testing showed the garments to possess superior thermophysiological properties. Our fabrics provided a three-times greater bite resistance than the insecticide-treated cloth. Our predictive model can be used to develop additional textiles in the future for garments that are highly bite resistant to mosquitoes.}, number={7}, journal={Insects}, publisher={MDPI AG}, author={Luan, Kun and West, Andre J. and McCord, Marian G. and DenHartog, Emiel A. and Shi, Quan and Bettermann, Isa and Li, Jiayin and Travanty, Nicholas V. and Mitchell, Robert D., III and Cave, Grayson L. and et al.}, year={2021}, month={Jul}, pages={636} }
 @article{luan_west_denhartog_mccord_2019, title={Auxetic deformation of the weft-knitted Miura-ori fold}, volume={90}, ISSN={0040-5175 1746-7748}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0040517519877468}, DOI={10.1177/0040517519877468}, abstractNote={ Negative Poisson’s ratio (NPR) material with unique geometry is rare in nature and has an auxetic response under strain in a specific direction. With this unique property, this type of material is significantly promising in many specific application fields. The curling structure commonly exists in knitted products due to the unbalanced force inside a knit loop. Thus, knitted fabric is an ideal candidate to mimic natural NPR materials, since it possesses such an inherent curly configuration and the flexibility to design and process. In this work, a weft-knitted Miura-ori fold (WMF) fabric was produced that creates a self-folding three-dimensional structure with NPR performance. Also, a finite element analysis model was developed to simulate the structural auxetic response to understand the deformation mechanism of hierarchical thread-based auxetic fabrics. The simulated strain–force curves of four WMF fabrics quantitatively agree with our experimental results. The auxetic morphologies, Poisson’s ratio and damping capacity were discussed, revealing the deformation mechanism of the WMF fabrics. This study thus provides a fundamental framework for mechanical-stimulating textiles. The developed NPR knitted fabrics have a high potential to be employed in areas of tissue engineering, such as artificial blood vessels and artificial folding mucosa. }, number={5-6}, journal={Textile Research Journal}, publisher={SAGE Publications}, author={Luan, Kun and West, Andre and DenHartog, Emiel and McCord, Marian}, year={2019}, month={Sep}, pages={617–630} }
 @article{halbkat_luan_cave_mccord_roe_denhartog_travanty_apperson_west_2019, title={Fabric infused with a botanical repellent for protection against mosquitoes}, volume={110}, ISSN={0040-5000 1754-2340}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2019.1603576}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2019.1603576}, abstractNote={Abstract Mosquito resistant apparel has become increasingly sought-after due to the rise in vector-borne illnesses such as the Zika Virus, Malaria, and Dengue Fever. Botanical insect repellents have been introduced to the market for consumers that desire a natural solution involving no pesticides or added chemicals. Fabric swatches consisting of 80% nylon and 20% elastane were separately treated with an organic repellent using a patented nonwoven vessel. The fabrics were then tested for effectiveness in repelling the mosquito Aedes aegypti using an arm-in-cage assay, the most commonly used method for mosquito repellents. The repellents were also evaluated and rated by study participants according to their preference for the appeal of the scent. The treatment method is user-friendly, enabling consumers to treat their clothing with an organic insect repellent as opposed to applying a synthetic chemical to their clothing and skin. The infused fabrics showed to be effective at repelling mosquitoes for up to 8 h after repellent infusion.}, number={10}, journal={The Journal of The Textile Institute}, publisher={Informa UK Limited}, author={Halbkat, Lilah and Luan, Kun and Cave, Grayson and McCord, Marian and Roe, Michael and DenHartog, Emiel and Travanty, Nicholas J. and Apperson, Charles S. and West, Andre J.}, year={2019}, month={Apr}, pages={1468–1474} }