@article{mccann_anderson_sherwood_bruder_bak_brodie_2022, title={CoastalImageLib: An open- source Python package for creating common coastal image products}, volume={20}, ISSN={["2352-7110"]}, DOI={10.1016/j.softx.2022.101215}, abstractNote={<h2>Abstract</h2> <i>CoastalImageLib</i> is a Python library that produces common coastal image products intended for quantitative analysis of coastal environments. This library contains functions to georectify and merge multiple oblique camera views, produce statistical image products for a given set of images, and create subsampled pixel instruments for use in bathymetric inversion, surface current estimation, run-up calculations, and other quantitative analyses. This package intends to be an open-source broadly generalizable front end to future coastal imaging applications, ultimately expanding user accessibility to optical remote sensing of coastal environments. This package was developed and tested on data collected from the Argus Tower, a 43 m tall observation structure in Duck, North Carolina at the US Army Engineer Research and Development Center's Field Research Facility that holds six stationary cameras which collect twice-hourly coastal image products. Thus, <i>CoastalImageLib</i> also contains functions designed to interface with the file storage and collection system implemented at the Argus Tower.}, journal={SOFTWAREX}, author={McCann, Maile P. and Anderson, Dylan L. and Sherwood, Christopher R. and Bruder, Brittany and Bak, A. Spicer and Brodie, Katherine L.}, year={2022}, month={Dec} }
 @article{kim_mieras_anderson_gallien_2021, title={A Numerical Study of Sheet Flow Driven by Skewed-Asymmetric Shoaling Waves Using SedWaveFoam}, volume={9}, ISSN={["2077-1312"]}, DOI={10.3390/jmse9090936}, abstractNote={SedWaveFoam, an OpenFOAM-based two-phase model that concurrently resolves the free surface wave field, and the bottom boundary layer is used to investigate sediment transport throughout the entire water column. The numerical model was validated with large-scale wave flume data for sheet flow driven by shoaling skewed-asymmetric waves with two different grain sizes. Newly obtained model results were combined with previous nonbreaking and near-breaking wave cases to develop parameterization methods for time-dependent bed shear stress and sediment transport rate under various sediment sizes and wave conditions. Gonzalez-Rodriguez and Madsen (GRM07) and quasi-steady approaches were compared for intra-wave bed shear stress. The results show that in strongly asymmetric flows, considering the separated boundary layer development processes at each half wave-cycle (i.e., GRM07) is essential to accurately estimating bed shear stress and highlights the impact of phase-lag effects on sediment transport rates. The quasi-steady approach underpredicts (∼60%) sediment transport rates, especially for fine grains under large velocity asymmetry. A modified phase-lag parameter, incorporating velocity asymmetry, sediment stirring, and settling processes is proposed to extend the Meyer-Peter and Mueller type power law formula. The extended formula accurately estimated the enhanced net onshore sediment transport rate observed under skewed-asymmetric wave conditions.}, number={9}, journal={JOURNAL OF MARINE SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING}, author={Kim, Yeulwoo and Mieras, Ryan S. and Anderson, Dylan and Gallien, Timu}, year={2021}, month={Sep} }
 @article{gharagozlou_dietrich_massey_anderson_gorski_overton_2021, title={Formation of a barrier island breach and its contributions to lagoonal circulation}, volume={262}, ISSN={["1096-0015"]}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ecss.2021.107593}, DOI={10.1016/j.ecss.2021.107593}, abstractNote={Barrier islands are a primary coastal defense and often experience erosion during storms. When they fail due to storm-induced breaching, there can be significant changes to the small- and large-scale hydrodynamics and morphodynamics of the region. In this study, we explore the formation of a breach on Hatteras Island, North Carolina, during Isabel (2003) and the subsequent flooding into Pamlico Sound. Two-way coupling of high-fidelity, high-resolution numerical models for coastal erosion and flooding enables a better understanding of the formation of the breach, as well as scenarios of the breach’s effects on the circulation in the region. The breach connecting the ocean to the sound formed during the day of landfall. It is shown that, during the storm, overwash and inundation from the ocean led to deterioration of the beach and dunes, and then after the storm, the creation of channels through the island was sensitive to elevated water levels in the lagoon. Then flooding scenarios are considered in which the ground surface of the hydrodynamic model was (a) static, updated with the (b) pre- and post-storm observations, and updated dynamically with (c) erosion model predictions and (d) erosion model predictions with elevated lagoon-side water levels. The model results show that the breach has region-scale effects on flooding that extend 10 to 13 km into the lagoon, increasing the local water levels by as much as 1 . 5 m . These results have implications for similar island-lagoon systems threatened by storms. • A storm-induced barrier-island breach is predicted with high-resolution models. • Ocean-side overwash and inundation led to beach and dune erosion during the storm. • Channel formation is sensitive to elevated sound-side water levels after the storm. • Erosion and circulation predictions are coupled to assess effects on region scales. • Breach allows flows 10–13 km into the lagoon, increases water depths by 1.5 m.}, journal={ESTUARINE COASTAL AND SHELF SCIENCE}, publisher={Elsevier BV}, author={Gharagozlou, Alireza and Dietrich, J. Casey and Massey, T. Chris and Anderson, Dylan L. and Gorski, Jessica F. and Overton, Margery F.}, year={2021}, month={Nov} }
 @article{anderson_ruggiero_mendez_barnard_erikson_o'neill_merrifield_rueda_cagigal_marra_2021, title={Projecting Climate Dependent Coastal Flood Risk With a Hybrid Statistical Dynamical Model}, volume={9}, ISSN={["2328-4277"]}, DOI={10.1029/2021EF002285}, abstractNote={Abstract}, number={12}, journal={EARTHS FUTURE}, author={Anderson, D. L. and Ruggiero, P. and Mendez, F. J. and Barnard, P. L. and Erikson, L. H. and O'Neill, A. C. and Merrifield, M. and Rueda, A. and Cagigal, L. and Marra, J.}, year={2021}, month={Dec} }
 @article{anderson_bak_brodie_cohn_holman_stanley_2021, title={Quantifying Optically Derived Two-Dimensional Wave-Averaged Currents in the Surf Zone}, volume={13}, ISSN={["2072-4292"]}, DOI={10.3390/rs13040690}, abstractNote={Complex two-dimensional nearshore current patterns are generated by feedbacks between sub-aqueous morphology and momentum imparted on the water column by breaking waves, winds, and tides. These non-stationary features, such as rip currents and circulation cells, respond to changing environmental conditions and underlying morphology. However, using fixed instruments to observe nearshore currents is limiting due to the high costs and logistics necessary to achieve adequate spatial sampling resolution. A new technique for processing surf-zone imagery, WAMFlow, quantifies fluid velocities to reveal complex, multi-scale (10 s–1000 s meters) nearshore surface circulation patterns. We apply the concept of a wave-averaged movie (WAM) to measure surf-zone circulation patterns on spatial scales of kilometers in the alongshore and 100 s of meters in the cross-shore. The approach uses a rolling average of 2 Hz optical imagery, removing the dominant optical clutter of incident waves, to leave the residual foam or water turbidity features carried by the flow. These residual features are tracked as quasi-passive tracers in space and time using optical flow, which solves for u and v as a function of image intensity gradients in x, y, and t. Surf zone drifters were deployed over multiple days with varying nearshore circulations to validate the optically derived flow patterns. Root mean square error are reduced to 0.1 m per second after filtering based on image attributes. The optically derived patterns captured longshore currents, rip currents, and gyres within the surf zone. Quantifying nearshore circulation patterns using low-cost image platforms and open-source computer vision algorithms presents the potential to further our understanding of fundamental surf zone dynamics.}, number={4}, journal={REMOTE SENSING}, author={Anderson, Dylan and Bak, A. Spicer and Brodie, Katherine L. and Cohn, Nicholas and Holman, Rob A. and Stanley, John}, year={2021}, month={Feb} }
 @article{cagigal_rueda_anderson_ruggiero_merrifield_montano_coco_mendez_2020, title={A multivariate, stochastic, climate-based wave emulator for shoreline change modelling}, volume={154}, ISSN={["1463-5011"]}, DOI={10.1016/j.ocemod.2020.101695}, abstractNote={Coastal hazards often result from the combination of different simultaneous oceanographic processes that occur at multiple spatial and temporal scales. To predict coastal flooding and erosion, it is necessary to accurately represent hydrodynamic conditions. For this reason, here we present a stochastic, climate based wave emulator that provides the hydrodynamic conditions needed for these predictions. The emulator can generate an infinitely long data series maintaining its statistical properties at different time scales, from intra-storm to inter-annual variability, and its link to large scale climate patterns. The proposed methodology relies on the use of weather types and an autoregressive logistic regression model forced with different variables to simulate daily scale chronology. Considering the dependencies of wave conditions on the different weather types, the intra-storm chronology is solved by means of shuffling and stretching historical wave sequences. To demonstrate the replicability of this emulator worldwide, we have applied the model to 3 different locations and found good agreement when compared to the historical data. Furthermore, to illustrate and explain the strengths and limitations of the emulator, we present a different application for each of the different locations.}, journal={OCEAN MODELLING}, author={Cagigal, Laura and Rueda, Ana and Anderson, Dylan and Ruggiero, Peter and Merrifield, Mark A. and Montano, Jennifer and Coco, Giovanni and Mendez, Fernando J.}, year={2020}, month={Oct} }