@article{chakraborty_moore_parrillo-chapman_2022, title={Automatic defect detection for fabric printing using a deep convolutional neural network}, volume={15}, ISSN={["1754-3274"]}, DOI={10.1080/17543266.2021.1925355}, abstractNote={ABSTRACT Defect detection is a crucial step in textile and apparel quality control. An efficient defect detection system can ensure the overall quality of the processes and products that are acceptable to consumers. Existing techniques for real-time defect detection tend to vary according to unique manufacturing processes, focal defects and computational algorithms. Although the need is high, research related to automatic printed fabric defect detection processes is not prevalent in academic literatures. This research proposes a novel methodology that demonstrates the application of convolutional neural network (CNN) to classify printing defects based on the fabric images collected from industries. The research also integrated visual geometric group (VGG), DenseNet, Inception and Xception deep learning networks to compare model performance. The results exhibit that the VGG-based models perform better compared to a simple CNN model, suggesting promise for automatic defect detection (ADD) of printed fabrics that can improve profitability in fashion supply chains.}, number={2}, journal={INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF FASHION DESIGN TECHNOLOGY AND EDUCATION}, author={Chakraborty, Samit and Moore, Marguerite and Parrillo-Chapman, Lisa}, year={2022}, pages={142–157} }
 @article{ding_szymczyk_mehraban_lim_parrillo-chapman_el-shafei_freeman_2022, title={Molecular and excited state properties of photostable anthraquinone red and violet dyes for hydrophobic fibers}, volume={1248}, ISSN={["1872-8014"]}, DOI={10.1016/j.molstruc.2021.131349}, abstractNote={The molecular, spectroscopic, and excited state properties of synthetic dyes for fiber-based outdoor materials continue to be of commercial interest. Early developments in this area were reported in the 1980s, when the need for dyes for polyester (PET)-based automobile interiors gave rise to commercially viable nitrodiphenylamine yellow, anthraquinone red and blue, and azo red dyes. To augment that initial knowledge base, the present study involved the use of experimental and theoretical methods to help establish the molecular structures and excited state properties of some more recent dyes for producing photostable colors on PET fibers. Having completed the characterization of present-day scarlet, blue, and yellow disperse dyes for PET-based fibers used outdoors, our attention turned to commercially available red and violet dyes. In this regard, HPLC analysis showed that the red product was a mixture containing four components, while the violet product contained only one component. Results from 1H NMR, HRMS, and single crystal X-ray diffraction analyses indicated that the principal components were dyes having a 1-amino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone base structure. The presence of an –OH group alpha to an anthraquinone C=O moiety provides for intramolecular H-bonding and a subsequent opportunity for intramolecular proton transfer in the excited state – as a photostabilizing mechanism. Further, for both dyes, results from the analysis of Frontier HOMO and LUMO isosurfaces indicated strong HOMO-LUMO overlap without molecular gaps and were consistent with strong excited state energy dissipation in a non-destructive way.}, journal={JOURNAL OF MOLECULAR STRUCTURE}, author={Ding, Yi and Szymczyk, Malgorzata and Mehraban, Nahid and Lim, Jihye and Parrillo-Chapman, Lisa and El-Shafei, Ahmed and Freeman, Harold S.}, year={2022}, month={Jan} }
 @article{wang_parrillo-chapman_rothenberg_liu_liu_2021, title={Digital Textile Ink-Jet Printing Innovation: Development and Evaluation of Digital Denim Technology}, volume={65}, ISSN={["1943-3522"]}, DOI={10.2352/J.ImagingSci.Technol.2021.65.4.040407}, abstractNote={Abstract This research explored the potential for ink-jet printing to replicate the coloration and finishing techniques of traditional denim fabric and standardized the reproduction and evaluation procedure. Although denim fabric is widely consumed and very popular, one drawback
 to denim is that the finishing and manufacturing processes are energy and water intensive and can cause environmental hazards as well as generation of pollution through water waste, particularly at the finishing stage. Textile ink-jet printing has the potential to replicate some of the coloration
 and finishing techniques of traditional denim fabric without negative environmental impacts. A two-phase research project was conducted. In Phase I (P1), an optimal standard production workflow for digital denim reproduction (including color and finishing effects) was established, and six
 different denim samples were reproduced based on the workflow. In Phase II, an expert visual assessment protocol was developed to evaluate the acceptance of the replicated digital denim. Twelve ink-jet printing, color science, and denim industry experts finished the assessment.}, number={4}, journal={JOURNAL OF IMAGING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY}, author={Wang, Ming and Parrillo-Chapman, Lisa and Rothenberg, Lori and Liu, Yixin and Liu, Jiajun}, year={2021}, month={Jul} }
 @article{yu_chapman_moore_2021, title={Profiling Digital Printing Technology Adoption in the Fashion Industry: A New Approach to Exploring Innovation Diffusion}, ISSN={["1793-6950"]}, DOI={10.1142/S0219877022500043}, abstractNote={Digital printing technology (DPT) represents a core innovation that is currently revolutionizing the global decorated apparel market by automating the printing process, facilitating customization, and reducing energy costs and production lead time. However, the fundamental understanding of the emerging DPT market remains unexplored due to its novelty. This study aims to identify DPT diffusion patterns over the past decade in the U.S. market and establish a predictive user profile employing social media-based analytics along with data mining and traditional statistical modeling. A proxy variable is used to measure likely adoption which reflects an S-shaped diffusion curve consistent with Diffusion of Innovations Theory. Additionally, the outcome profile suggests that likely DPT adopters reside in locations that reflect higher levels of education (bachelor’s degrees or higher), relatively young populations (i.e. between 19–34 years of age), proportionately higher incomes generated from art and design occupations, but with lower household annual incomes.}, journal={INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF INNOVATION AND TECHNOLOGY MANAGEMENT}, author={Yu, Yanan and Chapman, Lisa Parrillo and Moore, Marguerite M.}, year={2021}, month={Dec} }
 @article{liu_sui_terán_chapman_ankeny_vinueza_2021, title={Separation and identification of commercial reactive dyes with hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography and quadrupole time‐of‐flight mass spectrometry}, volume={137}, ISSN={1472-3581 1478-4408}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/cote.12539}, DOI={10.1111/cote.12539}, abstractNote={Abstract The separation and identification of colourants from aqueous matrices could potentially benefit the coloration industry. In this work, we report a new method that combines hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography (HILIC) and high‐resolution mass spectrometry (HRMS) for reactive dye separation and identification without employing ion‐pairing agents. The conditions outlined allowed the successful separation of a mixture of four commercial reactive dyes in an aqueous solution, which consisted of CI Reactive Black 5, CI Reactive Orange 35, CI Reactive Blue 49 and CI Reactive Red 31. To further demonstrate the feasibility of this new method, we conducted deeper research into the analysis of CI Reactive Red 31 and its hydrolysis products. Based on the high efficiency of HILIC for polar compounds, and its combination with HRMS, we were able to identify several isomers of CI Reactive Red 31 and its derivatives, which were further characterised by tandem mass spectrometry. This method could potentially benefit chemical evaluations in dye applications, including synthetic processes, because it provides reliable results and simplified operation conditions compared with common traditional high‐performance liquid chromatography methods.}, number={4}, journal={Coloration Technology}, publisher={Wiley}, author={Liu, Yixin and Sui, Xinyi and Terán, Julio E. and Chapman, Lisa P. and Ankeny, Mary and Vinueza, Nelson R.}, year={2021}, month={Mar}, pages={407–417} }
 @article{yu_moore_chapman_2021, title={Social network analysis of an emerging innovation: direct-to-garment printing technology}, volume={25}, ISSN={["1758-7433"]}, DOI={10.1108/JFMM-03-2020-0053}, abstractNote={PurposeThe study primarily aims to examine an emerging fashion technology, direct-to-garment (DTG) printing, using data mining-driven social network analysis (SNA). Simultaneously, the study also demonstrates application of a group novel computational technique to capture, analyze and visually depict data for strategic insight into the fashion industry.Design/methodology/approachA total of 5,060 tweets related to DTG were captured using Crimson Hexagon. Python and Gephi were applied to convert, calculate and visualize the yearly networks for 2016–2019. Based on graph theory, degree centrality and betweenness centrality indices guide interpretation of the outcome networks.FindingsThe findings reveal insights into DTG printing technology networks through identification of interrelated indicators (i.e. nodes, edges and communities) over time. Deeper interpretation of the dominant indicators and the unique changes within each of the DTG communities were investigated and discussed.Practical implicationsThree SNA models suggest directions including the dominant apparel categories for DTG application, competing alternatives for apparel decorating approaches to DTG and growing market niches for DTG. Interpretation of the yearly networks suggests evolution of this domain over the investigation period.Originality/valueThe social media based, data mining-driven SNA method provides a novel path and a powerful technique for scholars and practitioners to investigate information among complex, abstract or novel topics such as DTG. Context specific findings provide initial insight into the evolving competitive structures driving DTG in the fashion market.}, number={2}, journal={JOURNAL OF FASHION MARKETING AND MANAGEMENT}, author={Yu, Yanan and Moore, Marguerite and Chapman, Lisa P.}, year={2021}, month={Apr}, pages={274–289} }
 @article{ding_szymczyk_mehraban_lim_parrillo-chapman_el-shafei_freeman_2020, title={Molecular and excited state properties of photostable yellow disperse dyes}, volume={1207}, ISSN={["1872-8014"]}, url={http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?eid=2-s2.0-85078970244&partnerID=MN8TOARS}, DOI={10.1016/j.molstruc.2020.127815}, abstractNote={Textile dyes with high resistance to UV light induced fading on poly (ethylene terephthalate) (PET) fibers are important for textile substrates used in applications such as automobile interiors and outdoor furniture. Dye photostability influenced the development of dye structures for automobile fabrics dating back to the 1980s but the nature of currently used disperse dyes is less widely known. As part of a study designed to provide updates on this subject, the current investigation employed experimental and theoretical methods to determine the nature and properties of commercial dyes used to produce lightfast colors on PET fibers. Having completed the characterization of scarlet and blue disperse dyes for PET-based fabrics used outdoors, our attention turned to the characterization of commercially available lightfast yellow dyes. HPLC analysis showed that a pair of yellow products were mixtures containing three or four dyes, and the use of 1NMR, HRMS and single crystal X-ray diffraction analyses indicated that they were homologous azo–anthraquinone based dyes with or without a 1,8-bis(phenylthio)anthraquinone dye. Results from calculating Frontier HOMO and LUMO isosurfaces indicated strong HOMO/LUMO overlap, and the E0-0 for the homologous anthraquinone-based azo dyes was exactly the same (2.37 eV) which contributes to their photostability.}, journal={JOURNAL OF MOLECULAR STRUCTURE}, author={Ding, Yi and Szymczyk, Malgorzata and Mehraban, Nahid and Lim, Jihye and Parrillo-Chapman, Lisa and El-Shafei, Ahmed and Freeman, Harold S.}, year={2020}, month={May} }
 @article{lim_chapman_2019, title={Fabric Surface Characteristics and their Impact on Digital Textile Printing Quality of PET Fabrics}, volume={6}, ISSN={["2330-5517"]}, DOI={10.14504/ajr.6.1.1}, abstractNote={Pretreatment and yarn type alter the characteristics of fabric surfaces and impact the quality of inkjet digital printing including colorfastness, color shade, colorfulness, and color strength. Specifically, printed pigments are subject to crocking due to physical attachment on a fiber surface without diffusing into the fibers, which increases color transfer to another fabric. This remains a challenge in obtaining high colorfastness as well as full color shade, colorfulness, and color strength. Thus, this study investigated and quantitatively analyzed the effects of pretreatment and yarn type on shade, colorfulness, color strength, and crockfastness. Fabric wettability was also observed to examine the impact on printing quality.}, number={1}, journal={AATCC JOURNAL OF RESEARCH}, author={Lim, Jihye and Chapman, Lisa Parrillo}, year={2019}, pages={1–9} }
 @article{ding_mehraban_szymczyk_parrillo-chapman_el-shafei_freeman_2019, title={Molecular and excited state properties of photostable anthraquinone blue dyes for hydrophobic fibers}, volume={1181}, ISSN={0022-2860}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/J.MOLSTRUC.2018.12.070}, DOI={10.1016/J.MOLSTRUC.2018.12.070}, abstractNote={Abstract Synthetic dyes having high photostability on hydrophobic fibers such as poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) are of interest for use on textile substrates for outdoor applications. While much is known about photostable dyes developed for PET in the 1980s, owing to their viability for use in automobile interiors, little has been published on currently viable photostable disperse dyes. As part of an effort to help fill this void and to facilitate future photostable disperse dye design, the present study involved the use of experimental measurements and modelling studies to help characterize the molecular structures of commercially viable dyes for producing photostable colors on PET fibers, beginning with a pair of blue dyes. With the aid of HR-MS, 500 MHz 1H NMR, and X-ray crystallography, it was established that the two dyes are structural isomers having 1,5-(OH)2-anthraquinone (AQ) and 1,8-(OH)2-AQ base structures. It is proposed that the photostability of these dyes arises from the presence of multiple OH/NH groups ortho to the AQ C O groups which enables them to dissipate excited state energy through intramolecular proton transfer. Further, using DFT-based molecular modelling studies, it was shown that the dye having the 1,5-(OH)2-AQ base structure has a lower ESOP than the isomeric dye having the 1,8-(OH)2-AQ base structure. Similarly, results from calculating Frontier HOMO and LUMO isosurfaces indicated that the LUMO lobes of the latter dye are larger, suggesting that this dye undergoes excitation faster than the 1,5-(OH)2-AQ isomer.}, journal={Journal of Molecular Structure}, publisher={Elsevier BV}, author={Ding, Yi and Mehraban, Nahid and Szymczyk, Malgorzata and Parrillo-Chapman, Lisa and El-Shafei, Ahmed and Freeman, Harold S.}, year={2019}, month={Apr}, pages={109–117} }
 @article{ding_shamey_chapman_freeman_2019, title={Pretreatment effects on pigment-based textile inkjet printing - colour gamut and crockfastness properties}, volume={135}, ISSN={["1478-4408"]}, url={https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12377}, DOI={10.1111/cote.12377}, abstractNote={The application of two commercial pretreatment agents, formulated to improve the performance of a six‐colour nano‐scale pigment ink set during the textile inkjet printing of cotton and polyester ( PET ) fabrics, was examined. An industrial scale printer, operating at 55 linear m/h and equipped with Kyocera printheads, was used to print on commercial fabrics (180 cm wide) prepared for digital printing. The work employed an industrial scale rather than a benchtop printer to enhance the utility of the results for a commercial environment. The colorimetric attributes of printed fabrics were recorded for the individual inks as well as for spot colour combinations generated using Dr. Wirth RIPM aster v11 software. Colour table profiles were also generated and the colorimetric values of inks were compared. Colour gamuts of inks on cotton and PET , including three‐dimensional volumes in the CIELab space, were examined to assess the role of pretreatment on the colorimetric properties of the printed substrates. It was found that the pretreatments enhanced the ink receptiveness, colour intensity and colour gamut of fabrics. Pretreatment of cotton resulted in a larger gamut and more vivid colours than on PET. However, wet and dry crockfastness results were found to be low. In this regard, Time‐of‐Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry analysis of fabrics printed in the presence and absence of pretreatment indicated that the low crockfastness arises from higher pigment levels on the surface of the pretreated fabric.}, number={1}, journal={COLORATION TECHNOLOGY}, publisher={Wiley}, author={Ding, Yi and Shamey, Renzo and Chapman, Lisa Parillo and Freeman, Harold S.}, year={2019}, month={Feb}, pages={77–86} }
 @article{wang_chapman_moore_suh_2019, title={Replication of Screen-Printing Fabric via Ink-jet Textile Printing}, volume={63}, ISSN={["1943-3522"]}, DOI={10.2352/J.ImagingSci.Technol.2019.63.4.040402}, abstractNote={Digital textile printing (DTP) is fast, flexible, and relatively inexpensive for sample printing, and can be applied quickly in response to consumer demand. The aim of this two-stage research was to analyze the potential of DTP to replace traditional screen printing for a specific textile product. In Stage One, an optimal DTP workflow was established. The workflow included determination of the colorant and substrate combination, color calibration, CAD file, and the necessity of pretreatment. In Stage Two, a visual assessment instrument and protocol were established to evaluate the acceptance of replicated ink-jet printed fabric. The visual assessment and protocol were designed to evaluate the acceptance of the ink-jet printed sample to fully replicate the screen-printed sample via seven measured aspects. These seven aspects include: perceived color difference, lightness difference, overall color, scale, line quality, visual texture, and overall appearance. Data gathered from the visual assessment was then analyzed and compared using SPSS statistics software. The results indicate that DTP demonstrates a significant potential alternative for traditional screen printing.}, number={4}, journal={JOURNAL OF IMAGING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY}, author={Wang, Ming and Chapman, Lisa and Moore, Marguerite and Suh, Minyoung}, year={2019}, month={Jul} }
 @article{ding_parrillo-chapman_freeman_2018, title={A study of the effects of fabric pretreatment on color gamut from inkjet printing on polyester}, volume={109}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2017.1415623}, abstractNote={Abstract This paper pertains to characterizing the effects of a commercial pretreatment agent formulated specifically for digital printing on polyester (PET) fabric using pigment-based inks. Emphasis was placed on evaluating the colorimetric attributes of individual and mixed inks, from color patches generated using Dr Wirth RIPMaster V11 software and on developing an approach to addressing color-bleeding problems that can occur from inkjet printing on PET. In addition, 3-D color gamut analysis was undertaken using Origin software. Results indicated that the pretreatment increased color intensity, improved print quality and enlarged the color gamut. In another set of experiments, the use of different ink limits indicated no obvious change of color gamut using the same print mode, which afforded an opportunity to reduce ink consumption, thus the cost in large-scale production, and minimize color bleeding. To aid the potential commercial utility of the outcomes of this investigation, an industrial scale inkjet printer (MS JP5 evo) was used.}, number={9}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Ding, Yi and Parrillo-Chapman, Lisa and Freeman, Harold S.}, year={2018}, pages={1143–1151} }
 @article{lim_szymczyk_mehraban_ding_parrillo-chapman_el-shafei_freeman_2018, title={Data from X-ray crystallographic analysis and DFT calculations on isomeric azo disperse dyes}, volume={21}, ISSN={["2352-3409"]}, url={http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?eid=2-s2.0-85055317185&partnerID=MN8TOARS}, DOI={10.1016/j.dib.2018.10.010}, abstractNote={X-ray crystallography and DFT calculations were used to characterize the molecular nature and excited state properties of isomeric photostable azo dyes for textile fibers undergoing extensive sunlight exposure. Structural data in CIF files arising from X-ray analysis are reported and the complete files are deposited with the Cambridge Crystallographic Data Centre as CCDC 1548989 (https://www.ccdc.cam.ac.uk/structures/Search?Ccdcid=1548989) and CCDC 1548990 (https://www.ccdc.cam.ac.uk/structures/Search?Ccdcid=1548990). Data from calculating the vertical electronic excitation of 20 excited states for each dye and from calculating excited state oxidation potential (ESOP) and Frontier HOMO/LUMO isosurfaces are also presented. This data is related to the article “Molecular and excited state properties of isomeric scarlet disperse dyes” (Lim et al., 2018) [1].}, journal={DATA IN BRIEF}, author={Lim, Jihye and Szymczyk, Malgorzata and Mehraban, Nahid and Ding, Yi and Parrillo-Chapman, Lisa and El-Shafei, Ahmed and Freeman, Harold S.}, year={2018}, month={Dec}, pages={675–683} }
 @article{ding_parrillo-chapman_freeman_2018, title={Developing the methodology of colour gamut analysis and print quality evaluation for textile ink-jet printing: Delphi method}, volume={134}, ISSN={["1478-4408"]}, DOI={10.1111/cote.12319}, abstractNote={This research used the Delphi method to investigate current colour gamut analysis methods, which is a critical component of colour management systems (CMS). Thirteen ink-jet printing experts were interviewed to understand how they manage colour and their process for analysing and comparing colour gamut. A significant result of this study was the development of a four-stage process model for colour gamut analysis and print quality evaluation for textile ink-jet printing. The optimal process model was verified and approved by experts. This study uncovered an industry initiative toward the improvement of CMS for more accurate colour matching, a need to stabilise variables in the manufacturing process, and a need to standardise related tests and evaluations. The study also revealed new CMS software and technologies developed for ink formulation and pre-/post-treatment methods to facilitate high quality production in textile ink-jet printing.}, number={2}, journal={COLORATION TECHNOLOGY}, author={Ding, Yi and Parrillo-Chapman, Lisa and Freeman, Harold S.}, year={2018}, month={Apr}, pages={135–147} }
 @article{lim_szymczyk_mehraban_ding_parrillo-chapman_el-shafei_freeman_2018, title={Molecular and excited state properties of isomeric scarlet disperse dyes}, volume={1161}, ISSN={["1872-8014"]}, url={http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?eid=2-s2.0-85042332047&partnerID=MN8TOARS}, DOI={10.1016/j.molstruc.2018.02.028}, abstractNote={This work was part of an investigation aimed at characterizing the molecular and excited state properties of currently available disperse dyes developed to provide stability to extensive sunlight exposures when adsorbed on poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) fibers. Having completed the characterization of yellow, magenta, and cyan disperse dyes for PET-based fabrics used outdoors, our attention turned to the colors designed to enhance the color gamut of a standard 4-member (cyan/yellow/magenta/black) color set. The present study pertained specifically to the characterization of commercially available scarlet dyes. In this regard, HPLC analysis showed that a scarlet product used for PET coloration was mainly a 70/30 mixture of dyes, and the use of HRMS and single crystal X-ray diffraction analyses indicated that these two dyes were azo compounds derived from isomeric pyridine-based couplers which differed in the location of the primary amino (NH2) and anilino (NHPh) groups attached to the pyridine ring. One dye structure has the NHPh group para to the azo group (Sc2), while the other has that group in the ortho position (Sc3). The presence of either ortho substituent provides photostabilization through intramolecular H-bonding with the azo moiety. Further, results from molecular modeling studies showed that the lower excited state oxidation potential of Sc3 relative to that of Sc2 allows Sc3 to function as an energy quencher for the excited state of Sc2 – through thermodynamically favorable electron transfer.}, journal={JOURNAL OF MOLECULAR STRUCTURE}, author={Lim, Jihye and Szymczyk, Malgorzata and Mehraban, Nahid and Ding, Yi and Parrillo-Chapman, Lisa and El-Shafei, Ahmed and Freeman, Harold S.}, year={2018}, month={Jun}, pages={254–261} }
 @article{ding_freeman_parrillo-chapman_2017, title={Color Gamut Analysis and Color Fastness Evaluation for Textile Inkjet Printing Application on Polyester}, volume={61}, ISSN={["1943-3522"]}, DOI={10.2352/j.imagingsci.technol.2017.61.5.050503}, abstractNote={As part of a study aimed at selecting inksets for printing fabrics for outdoor use, pigment-based and disperse dye-based inksets were evaluated on polyester fabric via textile inkjet printing. Colorimetric attributes were recorded for each color, as well as the mixed colors generated through RIPMaster V11 software. Color Table (CTB) profiles were created to compare spot colors and International color consortium (ICC) profiles were created to evaluate color gamut volumes. Four-color and seven-color disperse dye-based inksets were evaluated, along with six-color and eight-color pigment-based inksets . Four-color and seven-color combination of disperse and pigment inksets were compared. As expected, the addition of colors to the basic four-color inkset increased the color gamuts significantly. It was also found that the disperse dye-based inkset provided deeper colors, and excellent wet and dry crock fastness. However, light fastness from the disperse dye-based inksets was not as high as the levels obtained using pigment-based inksets.}, number={5}, journal={JOURNAL OF IMAGING SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY}, author={Ding, Yi and Freeman, Harold S. and Parrillo-Chapman, Lisa}, year={2017}, month={Sep} }
 @article{sha_ma_chapman_jiang_zhang_2017, title={Three-dimensional modeling and simulation of deformation behavior of fancy weft knitted stitch fabric}, volume={87}, ISSN={["1746-7748"]}, DOI={10.1177/0040517516658518}, abstractNote={In order to obtain deformation behavior and volumetric characteristic of fancy weft knitted fabric, loop models are built on improved particle systems in this article. The problem of the non-uniform rational B-splines (NURBS) curves, which cannot pass through all control points, is solved by using an interpolation algorithm which can generate new auxiliary points. To simulate the twist of folded yarns, the NURBS curves are regarded as the geometric center, which is rotated with cylinders whose three relative Euler angles are calculated by the spatial coordinates of adjacent points. By analyzing the relationship between the deformation of the loop and the displacement of the particles, the deformation behavior of fancy weft knitted stitches is simulated. Velocity-Verlet, a numerical integration, is introduced to simulate fancy weft knitted stitches, and stable results are obtained. The results show that these models and algorithm accurately display the deformation behavior of fancy weft knitted stitches, as demonstrated by qualitative comparisons to measure the deformations of actual samples, and the simulator can scale up to animations with complex dynamic motion.}, number={14}, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={Sha, Sha and Ma, Pibo and Chapman, Lisa Parrillo and Jiang, Gaoming and Zhang, Aijun}, year={2017}, month={Sep}, pages={1742–1751} }
 @article{polston_parrillo-chapman_moore_2015, title={Print-on-demand inkjet digital textile printing technology: an initial understanding of user types and skill levels}, volume={8}, ISSN={1754-3266 1754-3274}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2014.992050}, DOI={10.1080/17543266.2014.992050}, abstractNote={Inkjet digital textile printing (IJDTP) is an emerging technology that offers product development opportunities for a number of niche markets. To effectively use IJDTP, users must possess skills in computer-aided design (CAD), colour control, and print design. To address impediments to effective implementation of IJDTP, a study was conducted that assessed the user skill level of crafters, designers, artist/artisans and small business owners/entrepreneurs. Data were collected from an international user base of a US print-on-demand IJDTP company to address the study's objectives (N = 624). The majority of participants self-identified as crafters (47%) and self-reported below average skills in CAD, colour control and creating repeat patterns. Significant differences emerged between the four user types and their skill levels. The study's results inform both educators and practitioners who use IJDTP and who require adequate skills to implement this emergent technology.}, number={2}, journal={International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education}, publisher={Informa UK Limited}, author={Polston, Katherine and Parrillo-Chapman, Lisa and Moore, Margeurite}, year={2015}, month={May}, pages={87–96} }
 @article{chapman_powell_shaker_2012, title={Consumer perception comparisons of jacquard woven and printed fabrics for home furnishings}, volume={12}, number={4}, journal={AATCC Review}, author={Chapman, L. P. and Powell, N. and Shaker, A. M.}, year={2012}, pages={38–44} }
 @article{chapman_little_2012, title={Textile design engineering within the product shape}, volume={103}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2011.615491}, abstractNote={The engineering of fabric design properties within the shape of a product is an iterative and often highly collaborative design process. Two emerging technologies, ink jet printing and integral knitting epitomize the ability of digital technologies to alter the design workflow and enable engineered designing. With both technologies, the end product can be simulated before production, facilitating strategic placement of fabrication features and properties. This research summarizes two comparative case studies: one detailing the engineered design process for ink jet printing and the other dealing with the engineered designing for integral knitting. Results of this study showed that the current software is fairly sophisticated for aesthetic design, however, the software is lacking for strategic placement of functional attributes within a product.}, number={8}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Chapman, Lisa Parrillo and Little, Trevor}, year={2012}, pages={866–874} }