@article{oxenham_2023, title={Nomination and commentary on 'The yarn twist inside the rotor in open-end spinning, by Cormack D., Grosberg P., & Ho K. H., Journal of the Textile Institute, 70:9, 380-384, 1979, and published online on 01 Dec 2008. https://doi.org/10.1080/00405007908658870'}, volume={114}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2023.2207346}, abstractNote={I have selected ‘The Yarn Twist Inside The Rotor in OpenEnd Spinning’ by D, Cormack, P. Grosberg & K.H. Ho, as the paper which I believe to have had the most profound impact on my teaching and research and had a significant role in the understanding of Rotor Spinning which enabled this technology to be developed into high-speed spinning machines. The paper represents the culmination of several years of research carried out by several students under the supervision of the late Prof. Percy Grosberg in the Department of Textile Industries at the University of Leeds. This relatively short paper describes a novel experimental approach to obtaining a better understanding of the fundamentals of yarn formation in rotor spinning and clearly indicates the fact the twist inside a rotor is substantially different from the twist in the final yarn. The implications of this finding are far reaching, since it explains the impact of both machine (in particular navel design) and fiber parameters on the spinnability and yarn quality of rotor spinning technology. While the reported study had specific limitations, the results clearly show that the interaction of the yarn with the navel results in a false twisting action that produces a higher twist inside the rotor. This higher twist inside the rotor results in a longer yarn formation zone and hence leads to better spinning stability, however excessive twist can result in exaggerated yarn formation zones which dramatically increase the formation of unwanted wrapper fibers and negative changes to the internal structure of the final yarn. The importance of these findings became apparent as higher speed rotor spinning machines were being developed and in particular attempts at processing synthetic fibers on these machines. This resulted in several student research projects and collaborative research with fiber producers and machinery makers, which utilized the experimental approach reported in the paper as a tool for optimizing navel design and fiber parameters, in particular fiber crimp and finish. Percy Grosberg was a true gentleman and an outstanding researcher whose interests spanned all areas of textiles. He published over fifty papers in the Journal of the Textile Institute and had numerous other papers in other journals and conference proceedings, and authored (co-authored) several textbooks. I was fortunate to be mentored by him during my early years as a lecturer and tried to emulate his approach to research and teaching, interacting with students, and respectfully collaborating with other faculty and staff.}, number={6}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Oxenham, William}, year={2023}, month={Jun}, pages={915–915} } @article{seyam_jasti_oxenham_theyson_2020, title={The role of hydrophilic finishes in frictional electrification and charge decay of woven fabric from polyester}, volume={111}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2019.1626611}, abstractNote={Abstract The effect of different concentrations of Hydroperm T (a hydrophilic surface finishes) on the electrostatic charging and decay properties of filament polyester fabrics, has been investigated. The fabric was subjected to frictional charging with steel and PTFE (Teflon®) and the electrostatic properties were investigated. The technique adopted not only measured the charge in the location of the tribocharging, but was also able to assess the distribution and dissipation of the charge across the surface of the fabric. While the charge decay for the untreated fabric was slow and linear, a double exponential charge decay was observed on the samples treated with Hydroperm® T finish. The charge generated on the fabric treated with higher concentration (0.5%) Hydroperm® T finish decayed very quickly when compared to the other samples. Resistivity measurements indicate that the Hydroperm® T treated samples have lower resistivity when compared with the untreated samples.}, number={1}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Seyam, Abdel-Fattah M. and Jasti, Vamsi Krishna and Oxenham, William and Theyson, Thomas}, year={2020}, month={Jan}, pages={1–9} } @article{jasti_seyam_oxenham_theyson_2019, title={A novel approach to investigating frictional electrification and charge decay on woven textile fabrics treated with ionic antistatic and hydrophilic surface finishes}, volume={110}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2018.1507703}, abstractNote={Abstract The results of a study of charge generation and decay for range of woven fabrics from ring spun cotton yarns, ring spun polyester yarns, and flat continuous filament polyester yarns treated with topical finishes are reported. The topical finishes include commercially available ionic antistatic finishes, one commercially available hydrophilic finish, and a new experimental moisture management finish. The fabrics were rubbed against surface of steel and Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE; Teflon®) and their frictional electrification and charge dissipation were monitored. It is shown that fabrics from cotton have a more rapid inherent charge decay than fabrics from polyester. Ionic antistatic finishes are shown to be effective in reducing charge generation and promoting charge decay and this is particularly true for the fabrics made from filament polyester. When commercially available and experimental hydrophilic finishes were applied on fabrics made from filament polyester, less charge was generated and the generated charge decayed quickly compared to the control untreated fabrics. In an attempt to understand the mechanism of charge decay, two probes were used with one placed on the top of the rubbed area and the other placed some distance from the rubbed area. It was found that the generated charge migrated from the rubbed areas to other parts of the sample. This behavior is more pronounced for fabrics treated with hydrophilic and moisture management finishes, which cause the charge to decay exponentially.}, number={3}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Jasti, Vamsi K. and Seyam, Abdel-Fattah M. and Oxenham, William and Theyson, Thomas}, year={2019}, month={Mar}, pages={338–348} } @article{kwon_hegarty_oxenham_thoney-barletta_grant_reid_2019, title={An introduction to a new direct testing method for characterizing pressure in compression fabrics}, volume={110}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2018.1527966}, abstractNote={Abstract A newly developed direct pressure measuring system known as the CRIM Pressure System was compared with a traditional direct measuring device, the PicoPress Compression System, for compression bandage and hosiery samples. PicoPress measurements were taken both on the CRIM system and on research participants. Initial results indicated a good correlation between CRIM Pressure System and PicoPress participants’ measurements.}, number={6}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Kwon, Cassandra and Hegarty, Meghan and Oxenham, William and Thoney-Barletta, Kristin and Grant, Edward and Reid, Lawrence}, year={2019}, month={Jun}, pages={822–831} } @article{kwon_hegarty_oxenham_thoney-barletta_grant_reid_2018, title={An indirect testing approach for characterizing pressure profiles of compression bandages and hosiery}, volume={109}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2017.1340079}, abstractNote={Abstract As outlined in compression therapy literature, the performance of a compression textile can be characterized by its stiffness and interface pressure. In this study, an indirect approach for measuring pressure from a set of compression bandages and hosiery was developed, from which rigidity (EI) values were determined, and tension–elongation curves and pressure-elongation data were calculated. The calculated pressure values were compared against PicoPress sensor readings measured on 10 participants. Results showed that the correlation between both approaches varied among bandage and hosiery samples.}, number={2}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, publisher={Informa UK Limited}, author={Kwon, Cassandra and Hegarty, Meghan and Oxenham, William and Thoney-Barletta, Kristin and Grant, Edward and Reid, Lawrence}, year={2018}, pages={256–267} } @article{oxenham_chen_2017, title={Introduction to the late Professor John W. S. Hearle's publication list}, volume={108}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2017.1337635}, abstractNote={The Publications Committee of The Textile Institute was unanimous in agreeing that there would be a recognition of Prof. Hearle’s outstanding contribution to Textile Science and most particularly h...}, number={9}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Oxenham, William and Chen, Xiaogang}, year={2017}, pages={1477–1488} } @article{suh_carroll_grant_oxenham_2014, title={Investigation into Feasibility of Inductively Coupled Antenna for Smart Clothing}, volume={26}, ISSN={0955-6222}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-10-2012-0064}, DOI={10.1108/ijcst-10-2012-0064}, abstractNote={ Purpose – This research investigated the feasibility of using an inductively coupled antenna as the basis of applying a systems approach to smart clothing. In order to simulate real-life situations, the impact of the distortions and relative displacement of different fabric layers (with affixed antennas) on the signal quality was assessed. The paper aims to discuss these issues. Design/methodology/approach – A spiral antenna was printed on different fabric substrates. Obstructive conditions of the inductively coupled fabric layers were investigated to find out how much influence these conditions had on transmission performance. Reflected signals and transmitted signals were observed, while fabric antennas were subjected to displacement (distance and dislocation) or deformation (stretching and bending). The threshold of physical obstacles was estimated based on statistical analyses. Findings – The limits of physical conditions that enable proper wireless transmission were estimated up to ∼2 cm for both distance and dislocation, and ∼0.24 K for bending deformation. The antenna performance remained within an acceptable level of 20 percent transmission up to 10 percent fabric stretch. Based on well-established performance metrics used in clothing environment on the body, which employs 2-5 cm of ease, the results imply that the inductively coupled antennas may be suitable for use in smart clothing. Originality/value – This research demonstrates that the use of inductively coupled antennas on multiple clothing layers could offer the basis of a new “wireless” system approach to smart clothing. This would not only result in performance benefits, but would also significantly improve the aesthetics of smart clothing which should result in new markets for such products. }, number={1}, journal={International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology}, publisher={Emerald}, author={Suh, M. and Carroll, K. and Grant, E. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2014}, pages={25–37} } @article{hegarty-craver_kwon_oxenham_grant_reid_2015, title={Towards characterizing the pressure profiles of medical compression hosiery: an investigation of current measurement devices and techniques}, volume={106}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2014.941535}, abstractNote={Medical compression hosiery is prescribed according to the pressure it applies to a limb. There are many devices available for measuring this pressure, but differences in the design of the systems used, measurement locations, protocols, and operators result in different pressures being measured for the same garment. This article explores the construction of these compression-measuring devices and the sensing involved in order to highlight the potential causes of these discrepancies. The Tension–Elongation profiles of six compression hosiery samples were then measured, and a method of verifying the point pressure measurements from current techniques was proposed and tested. The results of this analysis show that there was an average discrepancy of 1–5 mmHg between point pressure measurements and those predicted from the Tension–Elongation profiles. With respect to on-body measurements, this technique predicted a maximum change in pressure of 3 mmHg for the samples tested.}, number={7}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Hegarty-Craver, Meghan and Kwon, Cassandra and Oxenham, William and Grant, Edward and Reid, Lawrence, Jr.}, year={2015}, month={Jul}, pages={757–767} } @article{liu_oxenham_seyam_2013, title={Contact electrification of polymeric surfaces}, volume={38}, number={3}, journal={Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research}, author={Liu, L. and Oxenham, W. and Seyam, A. F. M.}, year={2013}, pages={265–269} } @article{liu_seyam_oxenham_2013, title={Frictional electrification on polymeric flat surfaces}, volume={8}, number={1}, journal={Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics}, author={Liu, L. and Seyam, A. M. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2013}, pages={126–136} } @article{m._carroll_grant_oxenham_2013, title={Effect of Fabric Substrate and Coating Material on the Quality of Conductive Printing}, volume={104}, ISSN={0040-5000 1754-2340}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2012.714107}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2012.714107}, abstractNote={This paper reports an investigation into the effect of fabric substrates and coating materials on the electrical and mechanical performance of printed antennas. Inductively coupled antennas were printed on fabrics using silver ink. To assure printability and protection, a printing structure was configured, consisting of surface coating, conductive printing, and protective coating. In order to simulate a realistic situation, three fabric substrates (denim, broadcloth, and single jersey) were selected from woven and knit fabrics for everyday wear. Three coating materials (acrylic, polyurethane, and silicone) were chosen from conventional conformal coating materials for printed circuit boards. Experimental results verified that fabric substrates can be selected to fit specific end-use application since it is shown that antenna performance was not significantly affected. Silicone coating is suggested to support antenna performance since this gave the least impairment in the fabrics as mechanical performance.}, number={2}, journal={Journal of Textile Institute}, publisher={Informa UK Limited}, author={M., Suh and Carroll, K. and Grant, E. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2013}, pages={213–222} } @article{erdumlu_ozipek_oxenham_2012, title={Vortex spinning technology}, volume={44}, ISSN={0040-5167 1754-2278}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2012.739345}, DOI={10.1080/00405167.2012.739345}, abstractNote={The latest development in air jet spinning technology is the Murata Vortex Spinner (MVS), which was firstly introduced at Osaka International Textile Machinery Show OTEMAS '97 by Murata Machinery Ltd. targeting the regular wear and casual fashion markets. Besides the main characteristics of modern spinning technologies, such as elimination of processing stages and ease of automation, distinctive features of the system are claimed to be the capability of spinning 100% carded cotton yarn and obtaining ring-like yarn structure at extremely high production speeds of up to 500 m/min. This paper outlines the historical background of vortex spinning technology, the spinning principle and the structure of the yarn spun on this system, as well as the factors having impacts on the yarn quality and hence on the end use properties. In addition, the properties of the vortex yarns and fabrics are evaluated in comparison to other spun yarns and fabrics. Finally, the paper deals with the economics of this novel system.}, number={3-4}, journal={Textile Progress}, publisher={Informa UK Limited}, author={Erdumlu, Nazan and Ozipek, Bulent and Oxenham, William}, year={2012}, month={Sep}, pages={141–174} } @article{lin_oxenham_yu_2011, title={A study of the drafting force in roller drafting and its influence on sliver irregularity}, volume={102}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2010.529284}, abstractNote={Drafting force is the direct and intuitive factor resulting in fiber motion in a drafting zone. Utilizing data collected from an ITT Draftometer, this paper discusses the effect of draft ratio and ratch in both the break and the main draft zones on drafting force and the coefficient of variation (CV) of drafting force, and how these in turn affect sliver and yarn irregularity. It is shown that: the draft settings in the break draft zone have a significant effect on the drafting force; the break draft ratio shows distinct relationship with sliver irregularity; the ratch in the main drafting zone has considerable influence on drafting force; and in the experiments reported the drafting force does not directly relate to final yarn irregularity.}, number={11}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Lin, Qian and Oxenham, William and Yu, Chongwen}, year={2011}, pages={994–1001} } @article{allen_parrish_cassill_oxenham_2012, title={Assessing the validity of a niche strategy model in predicting the potential and success of niche markets and products}, volume={103}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2011.627156}, abstractNote={Companies can increase market share and profitability through the use of a niche market strategy. Parrish examined how companies use a niche market strategy and developed the Parrish Niche Strategy Model. This paper presents results of a study testing the model in terms of: (1) predicting the potential of a niche market and/or product and (2) predicting the success of a niche market and/or product. In order to test the model, deductive logic was used to develop questions that would gather quantitative data related to market potential strategies and success variables. In order to determine the importance of variables in relation to predicting the potential and success of a niche market and/or product, instrument questions were developed that utilized rank order scales. In addition, three-point Likert scales were used in order to determine the level of importance for each of the market potential and success variables. The sample consisted of fiber and yarn manufacturers, fabric manufacturers, apparel manufacturers and marketers, and retailers. Results indicate that the Parrish Niche Strategy Model was useful for gaging the potential and success of niche strategies, in terms of both product and market. This research was significant in that it tested the only existing model of niche strategies developed specifically for the textile industry. In addition, this study focused on bottomweights, which represents a significant domestic consumption market for the US textile supply chain.}, number={8}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Allen, Reece and Parrish, Erin and Cassill, Nancy L. and Oxenham, William}, year={2012}, pages={900–911} } @inbook{suh_carroll_oxenham_2011, title={Effect of Protective Coating on the Performance of Wearable Antennas}, ISBN={9783642216657 9783642216664}, ISSN={0302-9743 1611-3349}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-21666-4_10}, DOI={10.1007/978-3-642-21666-4_10}, abstractNote={Current smart clothing faces challenges due to discomfort provided by some technological components. A wireless body area network using inductively coupled fabric antennas is suggested as one of the solutions to overcome this. Different types of fabric substrates (denim, broadcloth, and jersey) and protective coating (acrylic resin, polyurethane, and silicone) were selected and engineered to optimize the antenna performance – in terms of mechanical and electrical properties. Experimental results show that protective coating affects almost every mechanical property very significantly. Resistance of the antenna was recorded lowest on the polyurethane-coated antennas and inductance was minimized on the broadcloth substrates. Recognizing a trade-off between electrical performance and comfort, this research looks at ways to optimize the overall usability.}, booktitle={Lecture Notes in Computer Science}, publisher={Springer Berlin Heidelberg}, author={Suh, Minyoung and Carroll, Kate and Oxenham, William}, year={2011}, pages={84–93} } @article{lin_oxenham_yu_2012, title={Effect of accelerated point distribution on sliver irregularity. Part II: optimization of draft settings in two-zone roller drafting system}, volume={103}, ISSN={0040-5000 1754-2340}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2011.590009}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2011.590009}, abstractNote={Accelerated point distribution plays a dominant role in discussing sliver irregularity in drafting. This paper, which is based on a theory developed in an earlier publication, proposes a new method to optimize the draft settings using the minimum coefficient of variation (CV) of fiber accelerated point. The new approach offers advantages over the traditional regressed optimal drafted settings (to yield the least weight variation in drafted slivers) and does not need extensive laboratory trials.}, number={5}, journal={Journal of the Textile Institute}, publisher={Informa UK Limited}, author={Lin, Qian and Oxenham, William and Yu, Chongwen}, year={2012}, month={May}, pages={558–564} } @article{lin_oxenham_yu_2012, title={Effect of accelerated point distribution on sliver irregularity. Part Ι: characterization of accelerated point distribution}, volume={103}, ISSN={0040-5000 1754-2340}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2011.590008}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2011.590008}, abstractNote={This paper introduces a new approach to characterize the accelerated point distribution in roller drafting. The approach uses 2-parameter Weibull distribution and Log-normal distribution to estimate the probability density function of the fiber accelerated point by including the influence of draft ratio and ratch, as well as fiber lengths. The coefficient of variation (CV) of accelerated points is then derived by employing conditional probability. The model was applied to a group of simulated data from literature and newly obtained experimental data of accelerated point distribution. The CV of the fiber accelerated points was compared with the CV from other published accelerated point distributions and the data derived from measurements of sliver irregularity. The model based on Log-normal distribution was proved to adequately characterize the probability density function of the fiber accelerated point. The accelerated point distribution would be a plausible variable to be utilized in the optimization of the draft settings.}, number={5}, journal={Journal of the Textile Institute}, publisher={Informa UK Limited}, author={Lin, Qian and Oxenham, William and Yu, Chongwen}, year={2012}, month={May}, pages={549–557} } @article{liu_oxenham_seyam_theyson_2011, title={Effect of relative rubbing speed on the tribo-electrification of continuous filament yarn by stainless steel pins}, volume={102}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2010.536390}, abstractNote={The effect of relative rubbing speed on the tribo‐electrification between different continuous filament yarns and stainless steel “charging pins” was analysed. A modified linear tester, housed in an environmental room, was used to charge the yarn while transporting at desired speed and input tension. The yarn was rubbed against the charging pin, which was also rotated at different speeds. The yarn surface charge, yarn output tension and charging pin’s vibration were monitored in real time automatically. The results showed that for nylon yarn charge was minimized when the yarn/pin relative speed approached zero, regardless of the absolute rubbing speeds of yarn and pin. It was also found that, at the same relative speed, less charge was generated when a larger pin was used. For finish‐free nylon yarn, the charge was also minimized as the relative speed approaches zero; however, for finish‐free polyester yarn and finish‐free polypropylene yarn, the effect of relative rubbing speed on the electrification was not very significant.}, number={12}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Liu, Lu and Oxenham, William and Seyam, Abdelfattah M. and Theyson, Thomas}, year={2011}, pages={1075–1085} } @article{liu_theyson_oxenham_seyam_2012, title={Electrification of antistatic-treated polymeric surface}, volume={103}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2011.564798}, abstractNote={Nylon and polypropylene surfaces were treated with three different finishes (nonionic, cationic, and anionic) at four different solution concentrations (weight percentage of active finish to solution), 0.025%, 0.05%, 0.075%, and 0.1%. Contact electrification tests showed that charge accumulated on polypropylene decreased as the concentration of nonionic and anionic solutions increased, and charge could be controlled when the concentration reached 0.1%. The same effect was realized when the concentration of the cationic solution was only 0.025%. No contact charging was observed on nylon after treating with any solutions. Rubbing electrification (tribo‐charging) of nylon treated with the nonionic solution showed that charge decreased as the solution concentration increased, and no charge was observed as the solution concentration reached 0.1%. Furthermore, no tribo‐charging of nylon was observed at any level of the cationic or anionic agents applied to the surface.}, number={2}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Liu, L. and Theyson, T. and Oxenham, W. and Seyam, A. M.}, year={2012}, pages={215–224} } @article{lin_xing_oxenham_yu_2012, title={Generation of cotton fiber length probability density function with length measures}, volume={103}, ISSN={0040-5000 1754-2340}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2011.566005}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2011.566005}, abstractNote={This report describes an investigation into the generation of fiber length distributional function using a limited number of length measurements. Based on the experimental data, the correlation between fiber length statistics (the calculated mean value and variance) and length measures (tested short fiber content, span lengths, etc.) was identified by employing the stepwise regression analysis, and this was necessary to describe the location and dispersion of the fiber length distribution. Then, a finite mixture model was adopted to generate the probability density function of fiber length. This paper concludes with a presentation of the approach to determine the probability density function of cotton fiber length. It is shown that the calculated short fiber contents and upper‐quartile length from the probability density function fit the experimental values well.}, number={2}, journal={Journal of the Textile Institute}, publisher={Informa UK Limited}, author={Lin, Qian and Xing, Mingjie and Oxenham, William and Yu, Chongwen}, year={2012}, month={Feb}, pages={225–230} } @article{hamilton_oxenham_hodge_thoney_2012, title={Optimal data use in staple yarn manufacturing}, volume={103}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, url={http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?eid=2-s2.0-84860203802&partnerID=MN8TOARS}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2011.588837}, abstractNote={The contemporary cotton spinning mill is home to modern machinery capable of generating a plethora of data. This data comes in the form of online data, which is real-time data created by the processing machinery, and offline data, which is created via laboratory testing of samples. This paper describes a study which applied statistical techniques to the two data sets. One came from an actual open-end spinning plant. The other was created in a laboratory environment. This analysis served to discover trends within this data sample and to determine the optimal data use for the cotton spinning industry. In addition, the paper presents a perspective into the current state of data management in the cotton spinning industry obtained by visiting an assortment of active spinning mills.}, number={5}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, publisher={Informa UK Limited}, author={Hamilton, B. J. and Oxenham, W. and Hodge, G. L. and Thoney, K. A.}, year={2012}, pages={499–507} } @article{lin_oxenham_yu_2012, title={Study on the blend irregularity in blended yarns}, volume={103}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000.2010.542014}, abstractNote={A new model is developed to evaluate the theoretical blend irregularity of a two‐component blended yarn. By introducing the variation of the number of fibers per cross‐section along the yarn, the obtained expression can offer insight into the cause of blend irregularity. Two experiments show that the results from the new model have essentially the same changing tendency as experimental values. The value of the blend irregularity of one component is shown to decrease with the increase of its proportion and the blend irregularity also decreases in the case of finer fibers.}, number={1}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Lin, Qian and Oxenham, William and Yu, Chongwen}, year={2012}, pages={28–33} } @article{suh_seyam_oxenham_theyson_2010, title={Static generation and dissipation of polyester continuous filament yarn}, volume={101}, ISSN={0040-5000 1754-2340}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000802377250}, DOI={10.1080/00405000802377250}, abstractNote={The effect of environmental conditions (temperature and relative humidity) and contact conditions (yarn tension and speed) on static generation and dissipation of polyester flat continuous filament yarn, when rubbed against stainless steel was analyzed. A newly developed device, housed in an environmental room, was used to charge the yarn while moving under desired tension. The charge potentials were measured at two different positions in real time. These measurements and previously established exponential relationship permitted the calculation of the initial potential (at the generation point) and a ‘characteristic decay time’, which is a measure of static dissipation. Experimental data showed that temperature, humidity, yarn tension, and yarn speed have significant effects on static generation; while temperature, humidity, and yarn speed yielded statistically significant changes on static dissipation. Anomalous behavior of static charge when measured at a temperature of 35°C, provided a meaningful clue to control the environmental conditions in the textile industry.}, number={3}, journal={Journal of the Textile Institute}, publisher={Informa UK Limited}, author={Suh, M. and Seyam, A. M. and Oxenham, W. and Theyson, T.}, year={2010}, month={Feb}, pages={261–269} } @article{yueksekkaya_oxenham_tercan_2008, title={Analysis of Mechanical and Electrical Noise Interfacing the Instrument During Data Acquisition for Measurement of Surface Properties of Textile Fibers}, volume={57}, ISSN={["1557-9662"]}, DOI={10.1109/TIM.2008.926402}, abstractNote={A new compression testing instrument was developed for the assessment of the surface properties of fibers. To measure the variation in compression force during a test, a full-bridge load cell was developed. It was seen that the signal coming from the strain gauges was superimposed with noise. The source of the noise was both electrical and mechanical. An extensive mathematical analysis of mechanical noise and the application of a mechanical noise-reduction technique minimized the mechanical noise component. An analysis of electrical noise showed that the motion control card was interfacing with the data acquisition (DAQ) card via both the RS232 and the ac power line. It was necessary to separate the motion control unit and the DAQ unit to eliminate the electrical noise problem present in the system. After eliminating the noise from the unit, the calibration of the strain gauges has been performed. The coefficient of correlation was found to be 1.00 with a cubic model. It was possible to differentiate the differences between the surface characteristics of different fibers.}, number={12}, journal={IEEE TRANSACTIONS ON INSTRUMENTATION AND MEASUREMENT}, author={Yueksekkaya, Mehmet Emin and Oxenham, William and Tercan, Mevlut}, year={2008}, month={Dec}, pages={2885–2890} } @article{berdine m._cassill n. l._r._2008, title={Analysis of supply chain strategies used by the United States textile and apparel industries}, volume={12}, DOI={10.1108/rjta-12-03-2008-b001}, abstractNote={Due to the highly competitive nature of an increasingly global market, textile and apparel firms are being challenged to leverage and enhance their core competencies in order to maintain and potentially increase market share. A strategy being explored is increasing supply chain efficiencies with the goal of reducing costs and improving customer service levels. This research seeks to explore such supply chain strategies which are currently being used into addition to the product costing and outsourcing decision analysis. Executives within the fiber and yarn, textile, apparel and retail industries are quantitatively and qualitatively interviewed in order to examine these issues. Results show that firms are using a blended sourcing strategy in order to minimize risk and leverage manufacturing capabilities. Quality, cost and reliability of delivery are all indicated as important in terms of sourcing criteria. The results provide insight into the decision process and a framework for increasing efficiency resulting in increased international competitiveness.}, number={3}, journal={Research Journal of Textile & Apparel}, author={Berdine M., Parrish E. and Cassill N. L., Oxenham W. and R., Jones M.}, year={2008}, pages={1–17} } @article{allen_parrish_cassill_oxenham_jones_2008, title={Competitive analysis of niche product supply chains}, volume={12}, DOI={10.1108/rjta-12-03-2008-b002}, abstractNote={Companies are pursuing niche markets to combat competitive pressures from low-cost producers of textiles and apparel. These small, customer-need centered markets provide economic competitiveness opportunities through increased market share and profitability (Parrish, 2003). To further understand niche marketing strategies and expand the Parrish Niche Strategy Model (2003), competitive analyses are conducted using secondary data. The analyses covered companies in each sector (fiber/yarn, textile, apparel, and retail) of the supply chain. The purpose of the analyses is to understand competitive positions and strategies of companies competing with niche products in the bottomweight market. This market is chosen because it represents a significant consumption market in the United States where domestic textile manufacturers still have a presence. The results indicate that growth rates are higher for downstream companies, although a larger number of upstream companies are privately held. Companies in all sectors of the supply chain are found to be utilizing supply chain and brand management strategies.}, number={3}, journal={Research Journal of Textile & Apparel}, author={Allen, R. M. and Parrish, E. and Cassill, N. L. and Oxenham, W. and Jones, M. R.}, year={2008}, pages={18–29} } @article{seyam_cai_oxenham_2009, title={Devices for measuring electrostatic generation and dissipation on the surfaces of polymeric materials}, volume={100}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000701819840}, abstractNote={Dynamic electrostatic generation and dissipation on polymer surfaces are of great importance for materials such as yarns and films. To support fundamental research in this area, innovative devices and experimental techniques that can lead to a better understanding of these phenomena are of obvious academic and industrial interest. This paper reports the development of devices for testing the electrostatic generation/dissipation properties of polymer surfaces. These devices include a tester for assessing moving yarns, a high-resistance system to measure the yarn's linear resistance, a tester for evaluating stationary fabrics or films while rubbing against a moving surface and a contact charge tester for investigating charge generated by contacting of two surfaces. These devices enable the study of the influences of relative moving speed, yarn tension, electrostatic charge properties of yarns, as well as contact pressure, rubbing speed, number of rubbings or contacts on the static charge properties of films.}, number={4}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Seyam, Abdel-Fattah M. and Cai, Yiyun and Oxenham, William}, year={2009}, month={May}, pages={338–349} } @article{yuksekkaya_oxenham_2008, title={Evaluating the surface characteristics of fibres by compression method}, volume={99}, ISSN={["1754-2340"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405000701776156}, abstractNote={During the recent years, there have been significant developments in methods and philosophies of fibre testing. While it is possible to measure the most of the properties of fibres, there are no standard test techniques for assessing the surface properties of fibres. This research aimed at establishing a technique, which can be routinely used to determine the frictional characteristics of textile fibres. The intention was to assess the frictional characteristics from measurements carried out on fibre ‘bundles’ rather than individual fibres since this should lead to information that is more meaningful in the prediction of processing performance and quality. The technique adapted is based on a sensitive compression test. Developing a technique for assessing the stick-slip characteristics of fibres can be used by cotton suppliers and spinners to provide data that can be used to optimise bale selection and to indicate fibres that may present processing difficulties. This will result in possible improvements in yarn and fabric quality at relatively low cost of fibre testing.}, number={6}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Yuksekkaya, M. E. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2008}, pages={545–549} } @article{seyam_lee_hodge_oxenham_grant_2008, title={Warp break detection in Jacquard weaving using Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems: Effect of yarn type}, volume={78}, ISSN={["0040-5175"]}, url={http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?eid=2-s2.0-51649106873&partnerID=MN8TOARS}, DOI={10.1177/0040517508090480}, abstractNote={ This paper reports a study aimed at detecting warp breaks in terms of yarn type using a Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems (MEMS) accelerometer based detection system, which has been described in earlier publications. The MEMS accelerometers were mounted on harness cords of a Jacquard tie. MEMS output acceleration signals were analyzed. The signals were acquired while warp ends were up and at the moment of intentional break with a pair of sharp scissors simulating missing warp ends. The results indicated that MEMS acceleration signals at intentional breaks for continuous filament from standard and high strength fibers could be detected. The break signals of cotton and cotton/polyester spun yarns were undetectable. }, number={8}, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={Seyam, Abdel-Fattah M. and Lee, Jin Ho and Hodge, George and Oxenham, William and Grant, Eddie}, year={2008}, month={Aug}, pages={664–670} } @article{lee_seyam_hodge_oxenham_grant_2008, title={Warp breaks detection in Jacquard weaving using MEMS: Effect of weave on break signals}, volume={3}, number={1}, journal={Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics}, author={Lee, J. H. and Seyam, A. M. and Hodge, G. and Oxenham, W. and Grant, E.}, year={2008}, pages={25–31} } @article{shankam_oxenham_seyam_grant_hodge_2009, title={Wireless yarn tension measurement, and control in direct cabling process}, volume={100}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, url={http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?eid=2-s2.0-70449397531&partnerID=MN8TOARS}, DOI={10.1080/00405000701830318}, abstractNote={An online yarn tension sensing and control device has been designed and developed. The system was specifically devised for use in a direct cabling machine, wherein yarn tension in the spindle or pot yarn is highly critical and dictates the uniformity of the cabled yarn. Since a balloon formed by the creel yarn always encompasses the pot yarn in a direct cabling machine, yarn tension measurement using a wired sensor is far-fetched. Accordingly, a wireless yarn tension sensor was developed to address this problem and perform online yarn tension measurement. The wireless sensor can be used as an active monitoring tool for measuring online yarn tension in both component yarns, while the closed loop control system replaces passive yarn brakes used in the current direct cabling machines and executes a control mechanism that can control yarn tension adaptively. The device uses Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems (MEMS) technology with radio frequency (RF) transmission to effectively carry out dynamic online measurement. The control system in conjunction with the wireless sensor ensures equal tension in the component yarns, resulting in the formation of a uniform cabled yarn with equal lengths of both yarns.}, number={5}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Shankam, V. P. and Oxenham, W. and Seyam, A. M. and Grant, E. and Hodge, G.}, year={2009}, month={Jul}, pages={400–411} } @inproceedings{cai_liu l._w._a.m._t._2007, title={Dynamic electrostatic generation and dissipation on polymer surfaces}, author={Cai, Y. and Liu L., Oxenham and W., Seyam and A.M. and T., Theyson}, year={2007}, pages={301–311} } @article{tangboonritruthai s._w._2007, title={Global dynamics impacting yarn production and consumption}, volume={5}, number={4}, journal={Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management}, author={Tangboonritruthai S., Cassill N. L. and W., Oxenham}, year={2007}, pages={1–26} } @article{oxenham_2007, title={ITMA Technology: Staple spinning}, volume={157}, number={11}, journal={Textile World (New York, N.Y.)}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={2007}, pages={26–32} } @inproceedings{allen r._cassill n.l._m.r._2007, title={Niche marketing strategy in the textile and apparel industry: an investigation into development factors}, author={Allen R., Parrish E.D. and Cassill N.L., Oxenham W. and M.R., Jones}, year={2007}, pages={239–256} } @article{seyam_lee_hodge_oxenham_grant_2007, title={Prevention of warp breaks in Jacquard weaving}, volume={8}, ISSN={1229-9197 1875-0052}, url={http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/BF02908163}, DOI={10.1007/bf02908163}, number={1}, journal={Fibers and Polymers}, publisher={Springer Science and Business Media LLC}, author={Seyam, Abdelfattah M. and Lee, Jin Ho and Hodge, George and Oxenham, William and Grant, Edward}, year={2007}, month={Jan}, pages={79–83} } @article{lee_seyam_hodge_oxenham_grant_2007, title={Warp breaks detection in Jacquard weaving using MEMS: System development}, volume={98}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, url={http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?eid=2-s2.0-35348829713&partnerID=MN8TOARS}, DOI={10.1080/00405000701462559}, abstractNote={Abstract Research related to warp breaks has been limited to monitoring break frequency and the reason associated with breaks in order to improve warp yarn quality. While this approach led to improvement in weaving efficiency, warp breaks still represent a major problem, especially for today's high-speed weaving machines. Researchers have been trying to develop commercial automated systems to repair warp breaks with no success. The goal of this study is to explore inexpensive methods to detect warp breaks using nontraditional technique that would pave the way to automate warp break repair. To achieve the goal, a system that can detect warp breaks using MEMS accelerometers as sensors was developed for Jacquard weaving. The MEMS accelerometers were mounted on harness cords of a Jacquard tie. MEMS output acceleration signals components in the vertical and horizontal directions were analysed using time and frequency domains. The signals were acquired while warp ends are running and at the moment of intentional breaks. The analysis led to a successful detection of warp breaks, especially using the horizontal acceleration component that is mainly due to harness cord vibration.}, number={3}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Lee, J. H. and Seyam, A. M. and Hodge, G. and Oxenham, W. and Grant, E.}, year={2007}, pages={275–280} } @article{basal_oxenham_2006, title={Comparison of properties and structures of compact and conventional spun yarns}, volume={76}, ISSN={["0040-5175"]}, DOI={10.1177/0040517506065591}, abstractNote={ The properties and structural parameters of compact and conventional ring yarns produced at five different twist levels were compared. A modified version of the tracer fiber technique ( J. Textile Inst., 43, T60-T66, 1952) combined with the Image Analysis Application Version 3.0 (B.A.R.N. Engineering) was utilized to explore yarn structure. Results obtained from these analyses showed that the high tenacity values of compact yarns can be attributed to the higher rate and amplitude of fiber migration in these yarns compared to those in conventional ring yarns. Another important finding was the superiority of compact yarns in terms of tensile properties is less noticeable at higher twist levels and in 50/50 polyester/cotton blend. }, number={7}, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={Basal, Guldemet and Oxenham, William}, year={2006}, month={Jul}, pages={567–575} } @article{basal_oxenham_2006, title={Effects of some process parameters on the structure and properties of vortex spun yarn}, volume={76}, ISSN={["0040-5175"]}, DOI={10.1177/0040517506064253}, abstractNote={The effects of a number of process parameters, including the nozzle angle, nozzle pressure, spindle diameter, yarn delivery speed, and distance between the front roller and the spindle, on the structure and properties of vortex spun yarns were investigated. A modified version of the tracer fiber technique ( J. Text. Inst.,43, T60-T66, 1952) combined with the Image Analysis Application Version 3.0 (B.A.R.N. Engineering) was utilized to explore yarn structure. The migration behavior of fibers was characterized using the migration parameters introduced by Hearle et al. ( Text. Res. J.,35, 329-334,788-795, 1965). The results showed that the short front roller to the spindle distance caused better evenness, low imperfections, and less hairiness. High nozzle angle, high nozzle pressure, low yarn delivery speed and small spindle diameter reduced hairiness as well. High nozzle angle, high nozzle pressure and low speed also led to higher fiber migration. Surprisingly nozzle angle, nozzle pressure or delivery speed did not have any significant effects on yarn tensile properties. This is believed to be caused by the relatively small differences between the levels of these parameters used in the trials. The present study provides a window into the vortex spinning technology, but further research needs to be conducted to establish a “process-structure-property model” for vortex yarns.}, number={6}, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={Basal, Guldemet and Oxenham, Wiliam}, year={2006}, month={Jun}, pages={492–499} } @article{w._2006, title={Innovation in spun yarn technologies: Present and future}, volume={31}, number={1}, journal={Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research}, author={W., Oxenham}, year={2006}, pages={116–124} } @article{parrish_cassill_oxenham_2006, title={Niche market strategy for a mature marketplace}, volume={24}, ISSN={["1758-8049"]}, DOI={10.1108/02634500610711860}, abstractNote={PurposeTo examine how companies in the maturity stage of the product life cycle can implement and maintain a successful niche market strategy to increase competitiveness in the face of new competition, with particular reference to the global textile industry.Design/methodology/approachResponsible executives in eight firms in the textile and apparel/clothing sector in the USA were interviewed face‐to‐face or by telephone, or completed an online questionnaire. The sample contains leaders in the industry.FindingsResearch results suggest that niche marketing is an effective strategy for countering price competition in a mature industry and can use a niche market strategy. They identify key success factors, the most important factor of which was found to be a thorough understanding of the targeted consumers. It is concluded that the marketing mix plays a more important part than is generally suggested in the literature, by communicating non‐price product attributes to the niche market.Research limitations/implicationsThe small sample limits generalization beyond the companies that participated in the study and comparable firms in the US textile and apparel/clothing industry.Practical implicationsThis research study shows, within its limitations, that niche marketing is a promising global competitive strategy for mature industries. The study proposes practical guidelines for putting it into practice.Originality/valueThis study generally confirms the literature, but comes to some original further conclusions.}, number={7}, journal={MARKETING INTELLIGENCE & PLANNING}, author={Parrish, Erin D. and Cassill, Nancy L. and Oxenham, William}, year={2006}, pages={694–707} } @article{parrish_cassill_oxenham_2006, title={Niche market strategy in the textile and apparel industry}, volume={10}, ISSN={["1758-7433"]}, DOI={10.1108/13612020610701956}, abstractNote={PurposeThe purpose of this study is to examine how the textile and apparel industry can utilize a niche market strategy in order to compete with lower priced imports.Design/methodology/approachThe research design used for this study was an in‐depth case study method. The sample consisted of selected companies from the fiber, textile, apparel, and auxiliary sectors who are considered leaders in the US textile and apparel industry.FindingsResults indicated that firms can approach a niche strategy from either a market or a product perspective. Findings also indicated variables that are used by firms for both approaches. The most important factor in which a firm needs to focus is understanding the consumer.Research limitations/implicationsBecause of the limited sample size of US textile and apparel firms, the results can only be generalized to those companies that participated in the study and not the entire textile and apparel industry.Practical implicationsThis research study showed that a niche strategy is a promising global competitive strategy for the textile and apparel industry that can be used to compete with lower priced imports.Originality/valueThis study clarifies not only how a niche market/product is defined by the industry, but also how firms can implement and maintain a successful niche strategy.}, number={4}, journal={JOURNAL OF FASHION MARKETING AND MANAGEMENT}, author={Parrish, Erin and Cassill, Nancy and Oxenham, William}, year={2006}, pages={420-+} } @article{acar_bilgin_versteeg_dani_oxenham_2006, title={The mechanism of the air-jet texturing: The role of wetting, spin finish and friction in forming and fixing loops}, volume={76}, ISSN={["0040-5175"]}, DOI={10.1177/0040517506062614}, abstractNote={ A comprehensive review of the roles played by the airflow, wetting and spin finish on the air-jet texturing process is given. The results of an experimental investigation of the air-jet texturing process using residual spin finish, yarn-to-yarn static and kinetic friction, filament strength, filament diameter, and on-line tension measurements and high-speed cine-photography are reported. Filament yarn motion in different regions of the texturing nozzle during dry and wet texturing was analyzed. During the study it was found that water acted as lubricant to reduce friction between the filaments in the wet texturing process as the filament yarn traveled through the nozzle enabling easier relative motion of the filaments resulting in enhanced entanglement. Wet texturing also reduced spin finish on the yarn surface, which in turn, caused an increase in static friction between the filaments of the textured yarn resulting in better fixing of the loops and consequently superior yarns. }, number={2}, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={Acar, M and Bilgin, S and Versteeg, HK and Dani, N and Oxenham, W}, year={2006}, month={Feb}, pages={116–125} } @article{parrish_cassill_oxenham_jones_2006, title={The use of a niche market strategy by U.S. textile and apparel firms}, volume={97}, number={2}, journal={Journal of the Textile Institute}, author={Parrish, E. and Cassill, N. and Oxenham, W. and Jones, M.}, year={2006}, pages={77–85} } @article{shamkam_seyam_oxenham_hodge_grant_2005, title={Application of MEMS in yarn processing and quality control}, volume={36}, number={12}, journal={Textile Asia}, author={Shamkam, V. P. and Seyam, A. M. and Oxenham, W. and Hodge, G. and Grant, E.}, year={2005}, pages={52–54} } @inproceedings{shankam_seyam_oxenham w._e._2005, title={Application of MEMS in yarn processing and quality control: Dynamic yarn tension measurement and control in direct cabling machines}, booktitle={A new era: National Textile Center Forum, March 20-22, 2005: Textile Institute, 84th Annual World Conference, March 22-25, 2005, Back-to-Back Meetings in Raleigh, North Carolina, USA}, publisher={[Manchester, England]: The Textile Institute}, author={Shankam, V.P. and Seyam, A.M. and Oxenham W., Hodge G. and E., Grant}, year={2005}, pages={1–9} } @inproceedings{shankam_oxenham_seyam_hodge_grant_2005, title={Application of MEMS in yarn processing and quality control: Dynamic yarn tension measurement and control in two for one twisting mechanism}, booktitle={A new era: National Textile Center Forum, March 20-22, 2005: Textile Institute, 84th Annual World Conference, March 22-25, 2005, Back-to-Back Meetings in Raleigh, North Carolina, USA}, publisher={[Manchester, England]: The Textile Institute}, author={Shankam, V. P. and Oxenham, W. and Seyam, A. and Hodge, G. and Grant, G.}, year={2005} } @inproceedings{lee_seyam_hodge_grant_oxenham_2005, title={Automatic warp breaks monitoring and repair in Jacquard weaving using MEMS : Instrumentation and signal analysis}, booktitle={A new era: National Textile Center Forum, March 20-22, 2005: Textile Institute, 84th Annual World Conference, March 22-25, 2005, Back-to-Back Meetings in Raleigh, North Carolina, USA}, publisher={[Manchester, England]: The Textile Institute}, author={Lee, J. and Seyam, A. and Hodge, G. and Grant, E. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2005} } @article{cai_oxenham_2005, title={Computer modeling of fiber movements in high speed airflow}, volume={8}, number={4}, journal={Research Journal of Textile & Apparel}, author={Cai, Y. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2005}, pages={77–85} } @inproceedings{cai y._w._2005, title={Computer modeling of fiber movements in high-speed airflow}, booktitle={A new era: National Textile Center Forum, March 20-22, 2005: Textile Institute, 84th Annual World Conference, March 22-25, 2005, Back-to-Back Meetings in Raleigh, North Carolina, USA}, publisher={[Manchester, England]: The Textile Institute}, author={Cai Y. and W., Oxenham}, year={2005}, pages={1–10} } @article{w._c._2005, title={Developments in worsted spinning}, volume={36}, number={1}, journal={Textile Asia}, author={W., Oxenham and C., Cagle}, year={2005}, pages={38–46} } @article{mousavi_wang_grant_oxenham_hauser_2006, title={Effects of antioxidants on the thermal degradation of a polyol ester lubricant using GPC}, volume={45}, ISSN={["0888-5885"]}, DOI={10.1021/ie050539b}, abstractNote={The thermal degradation of a polyol ester lubricant used as the main component of textile fiber finishes at high temperature (i.e., 220 °C) has been studied to model the real-world degradation of finishes on fiber manufacturing equipment. Chemical and physical analyses were performed on the thermally stressed lubricants using a combined analytical technique to measure the progress of degradation in the lubricant. The effects of two commonly used antioxidants in the fiber industry and two secondary arylamine antioxidants used in turbine engine oil on the thermal behavior of the lubricants were investigated. Phenyl-α-naphthylamine (PAN) shows a significant improvement in the thermal stability of the lubricant used in this study and could be considered as a potential fiber finish antioxidant for the textile industry.}, number={1}, journal={INDUSTRIAL & ENGINEERING CHEMISTRY RESEARCH}, author={Mousavi, P and Wang, DX and Grant, CS and Oxenham, W and Hauser, PJ}, year={2006}, month={Jan}, pages={15–22} } @inproceedings{parrish e.d._w._2005, title={Examination of the factors surrounding the implementation of niche market strategy}, booktitle={A new era: National Textile Center Forum, March 20-22, 2005: Textile Institute, 84th Annual World Conference, March 22-25, 2005, Back-to-Back Meetings in Raleigh, North Carolina, USA}, publisher={[Manchester, England]: The Textile Institute}, author={Parrish E.D., Cassill N.L. and W., Oxenham}, year={2005}, pages={1–14} } @inproceedings{w._2005, title={Keynote address - trends in yarn production}, booktitle={11th International Wool Research Conference: 4th - 9th September, 2005, University of Leeds: proceedings}, publisher={Leeds, UK : Department of Colour and Polymer Chemistry, University of Leeds}, author={W., Oxenham}, year={2005}, pages={1–9} } @article{mousavi_wang_grant_oxenham_hauser_2005, title={Measuring thermal degradation of a polyol ester lubricant in liquid phase}, volume={44}, ISSN={["0888-5885"]}, DOI={10.1021/ie049135u}, abstractNote={Thermal degradation of two polyol ester lubricants with the same base chemical structures from two different manufacturers at high temperature (i.e., 220 °C) has been studied. Gel permeation chromatography was used to identify the high molecular weight products formed during thermal stressing of these lubricants. The amount of high molecular weight products generated at different stages of the degradation (e.g., dimers, oligomers) was quantified. Several other techniques were utilized as a combined analytical approach to provide comprehensive measurement of lubricant degradation in the liquid phase. The mechanism of degradation and the formation of oxidation products have been presented. A significant difference in the extent of degradation of the two lubricants was observed using different analytical techniques.}, number={15}, journal={INDUSTRIAL & ENGINEERING CHEMISTRY RESEARCH}, author={Mousavi, P and Wang, DX and Grant, CS and Oxenham, W and Hauser, PJ}, year={2005}, month={Jul}, pages={5455–5464} } @article{wang_mousavi_hauser_oxenham_grant_2005, title={Quartz crystal microbalance in elevated temperature viscous liquids: Temperature effect compensation and lubricant degradation monitoring}, volume={268}, ISSN={["1873-4359"]}, DOI={10.1016/j.colsurfa.2005.05.075}, abstractNote={The quartz crystal microbalance (QCM) was extended to investigate viscous liquids at elevated temperatures in both isothermal and non-isothermal systems. An analysis of the frequency–temperature behavior of the QCM resulted in a new approach to compensate for the effect of the rate of temperature rise on the theoretical QCM temperature coefficients. The temperature-dependent viscosities of a series of liquids were evaluated by measuring the damping voltage of QCM. Thermal degradation experiments on pentaerythritol tetrapelargonate based lubricants demonstrated the potential application of QCM as an in situ sensor to evaluate the thermal stability of lubricants or other viscous fluids. The solid residue deposition rates and liquid phase property changes (i.e., product of density and viscosity) were extensively investigated by monitoring variations in the QCM frequency and damping voltage during the lubricant thermally stressing over a temperature range of 150–220 °C.}, number={1-3}, journal={COLLOIDS AND SURFACES A-PHYSICOCHEMICAL AND ENGINEERING ASPECTS}, author={Wang, DX and Mousavi, P and Hauser, PJ and Oxenham, W and Grant, CS}, year={2005}, month={Oct}, pages={30–39} } @article{parrish e. d._oxenham w._jones m. r._2005, title={The use of niche market strategy by US textile and apparel firms}, volume={96}, DOI={10.1533/joti.2004.0027}, abstractNote={Abstract The purpose of this study was to examine how a niche market strategy can be used by the United States textile and apparel industry to compete with lower priced imports. A quantitative study was conducted in Spring 2003 that utilized an online survey, based on a deductive model of research (Creswell, 2003). Results showed that the majority of companies surveyed are currently using a niche market strategy. However, the company's approach to the strategy varied among industry sectors. Also, the variables that need to be in place for this strategy to be successful were discovered, in addition to the various methodologies that can be used to identify potential niche markets. The research results can be used in business strategy formulation to create and maintain niche markets as well as to provide a research framework for international textile and apparel researchers.}, number={2}, journal={Journal of the Textile Institute}, author={Parrish E. D., Cassill N. L. and Oxenham W. and Jones M. R.}, year={2005}, pages={77–85} } @article{lee_seyam_hodge_oxenham_grant_2005, title={Warp break detection in Jacquard weaving}, volume={36}, number={7}, journal={Textile Asia}, author={Lee, J. and Seyam, A. M. and Hodge, G. and Oxenham, W. and Grant, E.}, year={2005}, pages={29–34} } @inproceedings{lee_seyam_hodge_oxenham_e._2005, title={Warp breaks detection in Jacquard weaving using MEMS}, booktitle={A new era: National Textile Center Forum, March 20-22, 2005: Textile Institute, 84th Annual World Conference, March 22-25, 2005, Back-to-Back Meetings in Raleigh, North Carolina, USA}, publisher={[Manchester, England]: The Textile Institute}, author={Lee, J. and Seyam, A.M. and Hodge, G. and Oxenham, W. and E., Grant}, year={2005}, pages={1–18} } @article{oxenham_2005, title={Yarn quality beauty is in the eye of the beholder}, volume={30}, number={4}, journal={Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={2005}, pages={353–354} } @inproceedings{seyam_shankam v. p._j. h._e._g._oxenham_2004, title={Automation of warp break repair}, ISBN={9781870372619}, booktitle={"Quality textiles for quality life" : proceedings of the Textile Institute 83rd World Conference (83rd TIWC) : May 23-27, 2004, Shanghai, China}, publisher={Manchester, UK: Textile Institute}, author={Seyam, A. M. and Shankam V. P., Lee and J. H., Grant and E., Hodge and G. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2004}, pages={1345–1349} } @inproceedings{shankam_seyam_oxenham_hodge_grant_2004, title={Automation of warp break repair: Warp break location and frequency in Jacquard weaving}, booktitle={83rd Textile Institute World Conference, Shanghai China, May 2004}, publisher={Manchester, UK: Textile Institute}, author={Shankam, V. P. and Seyam, A. M. and Oxenham, W. and Hodge, G. and Grant, E.}, year={2004} } @article{oxenham_2004, title={ITMA 2003 technology: Spinning}, volume={154}, number={1}, journal={Textile World (New York, N.Y.)}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={2004}, pages={32–39} } @article{doguc n. b._a. m._oxenham_2004, title={Influence of fiber type on fiberweb properties in high-speed carding}, volume={13}, number={2}, journal={International Nonwovens Journal}, author={Doguc N. B., Seyam and A. M. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2004}, pages={48–53} } @article{cassill_parrish_oxenham_jones_2004, title={Modeling of niche market behavior of US textile and apparel firms}, volume={4}, number={2}, journal={Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management}, author={Cassill, N. and Parrish, E. and Oxenham, W. and Jones, M.}, year={2004} } @article{wang_mousavi_hauser_oxenham_grant_2004, title={Novel testing system for evaluating the thermal stability of polyol ester lubricants}, volume={43}, ISSN={["0888-5885"]}, DOI={10.1021/ie030782f}, abstractNote={This paper reports the development of a novel testing system for evaluating the thermal stability of polyol ester lubricants. The thermal degradation of three pentaerythritol tetrapelargonate based lubricants in the temperature range of 180−220 °C was studied using the developed comprehensive system. The system includes (1) a high-temperature quartz crystal microbalance for the real-time, in situ measurement of the solid residual deposition on metal surfaces and the viscosity change of thermally stressed liquid phase; (2) an on-line gas chromatograph for monitoring the volatiles generation in real time; and (3) an off-line gel permeation chromatograph for determining the molecular weight distribution of the liquid-phase products. The results indicate that the strategy can provide an integrated picture of the thermal stability of lubricants by providing quantitative, real-time, in situ information on gas-, liquid-, and solid-phase products during the thermal decomposition of the lubricants.}, number={21}, journal={INDUSTRIAL & ENGINEERING CHEMISTRY RESEARCH}, author={Wang, DX and Mousavi, P and Hauser, PJ and Oxenham, W and Grant, CS}, year={2004}, month={Oct}, pages={6638–6646} } @article{parrish_cassill_oxenham_2004, title={Opportunities in the international textile and apparel marketplace for niche markets}, volume={8}, DOI={10.1108/13612020410518682}, abstractNote={With the present transient status of many countries’ economies, the international textile industry faces considerable challenges. There are many uncertainties surrounding the global textile market, exacerbated by the foreboding that in 2005, quotas will be eliminated, resulting in “free” trade flows. There is no doubt that manufacturers who have created niche markets will be better positioned to compete in the global marketplace and achieve higher margins for products while yielding greater profitability. This paper is an introduction of a larger study that will examine how niche market definitions are being recast, owing to changing global patterns. This paper addresses what role niche markets will play in 2005. Specific objectives are: to give a broad overview of various trade theories, including classical, neo‐classical, post‐neo‐classical, and modern, in order to determine what, theoretically, the future holds for the US textile and apparel industry. Specifically, focus will be given to the issue of specialization as a result of trade; to explain how the specialization advocated by trade economists relates to niche markets in the US textile and apparel industry; to illustrate how traditional marketing methods differ from niche marketing; and to examine what role niche markets will play in the US textile and apparel industry in 2005. The results of this research study will aid in the formulation of a business strategy that can by utilized to capitalize on niche markets and will provide a research framework for global textile researchers.}, number={1}, journal={Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management}, author={Parrish, E. D. and Cassill, N. L. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2004}, pages={41–57} } @article{bauer-kurz_oxenham_shiffler_2004, title={The mechanism of crimp removal in synthetic staple fibers - Part 1: Crimp geometry and the load-extension curve}, volume={74}, ISSN={["0040-5175"]}, DOI={10.1177/004051750407400410}, abstractNote={ Fiber crimp behavior is an important parameter for processing performance and product quality. This study quantifies the mechanical behavior of a fiber during crimp removal. Single fiber tensile tests are performed on various fibers using a Textechno Favimat. Simultaneously, crimp removal is optically monitored. A methodology is developed to identify the true crimp removal region of the fiber load-extension curve during a tensile test. A mechanical model accounting for the nonlinear load-deflection behavior during crimp removal is also developed. }, number={4}, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={Bauer-Kurz, I and Oxenham, W and Shiffler, DA}, year={2004}, month={Apr}, pages={343–350} } @article{bauer-kurz_oxenham_shiffler_2004, title={The mechanism of crimp removal in synthetic staple fibers - Part II: Correlating single fiber crimp and carding parameters}, volume={74}, ISSN={["0040-5175"]}, DOI={10.1177/004051750407400503}, abstractNote={ Fiber crimp behavior is an important parameter for processing performance and product quality. In Part I, we quantified the mechanical behavior of a fiber during crimp removal based on load-extension data. A logarithmic function can be used to characterize the shape of the load-extension curve during crimp removal. Characteristic parameters for three different kinds of PET fibers are interpreted in terms of crimp processing settings and correlated with processing performance during carding. }, number={5}, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={Bauer-Kurz, I and Oxenham, W and Shiffler, DA}, year={2004}, month={May}, pages={387–393} } @inproceedings{karpe_hodge_oxenham_2003, title={Applying information engineering methodology for decision making in textiles}, booktitle={7th Asian Textile Conference, New Delhi, India, December 2003}, author={Karpe, Y. and Hodge, G. L. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2003} } @article{oxenham_2003, title={Developments in spinning}, journal={Textile World (New York, N.Y.)}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={2003}, pages={34–37} } @article{oxenham_2003, title={Italian textile technology - machines Italia: Spinning}, volume={153}, number={6}, journal={Textile World (New York, N.Y.)}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={2003} } @article{mock_oxenham_seyam_powell_poudeyhimi_borneman_2003, title={Machines Italia}, volume={153}, number={6}, journal={Textile World (New York, N.Y.)}, author={Mock, G. N. and Oxenham, W. and Seyam, A. and Powell, N. and Poudeyhimi, B. and Borneman, J. M.}, year={2003}, pages={34–45} } @article{oxenham_2003, title={Spinning machinery at ITMA}, volume={3}, number={3}, journal={Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={2003}, pages={1–6} } @article{parrish_oxenham_2003, title={The effect of NAFTA on US spinning industry}, volume={3}, number={3}, journal={AUTEX Research Journal}, author={Parrish, E.D. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2003}, pages={148–152} } @article{basal_oxenham_2003, title={Vortex spun yarns vs. air-jet spun yarn}, volume={3}, number={3}, journal={AUTEX Research Journal}, author={Basal, G. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2003}, pages={96–101} } @article{mahmoudi_2002, title={A new electro-mechanical method for measuring yarn thickness}, volume={2/1}, journal={AUTEX Research Journal}, author={Mahmoudi, M.R.}, year={2002} } @inproceedings{uncu_hodge_jones_oxenham_2002, title={Analysis of the current approaches to international plan location selection}, ISBN={9789623673518}, booktitle={Proceedings of the IFFTI International Conference, Hong Kong, November 2002}, publisher={[Hong Kong: Institute of Textiles and Clothing, the Hong Kong Polytechnic University]}, author={Uncu, S. and Hodge, G. L. and Jones, M. R. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2002} } @article{huh_kim_oxenham_2002, title={Analyzing structural and physical properties of ring, rotor, and friction spun yarns}, volume={72}, ISSN={["0040-5175"]}, DOI={10.1177/004051750207200212}, abstractNote={ This research is a comparative study of the structural and physical properties of ring, rotor, and friction spun yams and an attempt to explain the differences in their physical properties on the basis of yam structure. Results show that the ring spun yam exhibits the highest fiber migration, followed by rotor spun yam, and friction spun yam with the least. A higher migration factor corresponds with a higher yam breaking tenacity. An analysis of packing density shows that the fibers for the rotor yam are located most densely near the yam center, while the friction yam has the highest density of fibers near the yam surface. The ring spun yam has a moderately uniform distribution of fiber packing density. The experimental results on fiber arrangement near the yam axis show that the friction spun yam has the highest rupture elongation due to the skewed arrangement of fibers around the yam axis. Yam hairiness strongly depends on mean fiber position, with an inward shifting of the packing density leading to low yam hairiness. }, number={2}, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={Huh, Y and Kim, YR and Oxenham, W}, year={2002}, month={Feb}, pages={156–163} } @inproceedings{bauer-kurz i._schiffler_2002, title={Characterization of single fiber crimp using fiber load-extension behavior}, booktitle={Conference proceedings: Joint INDA-TAPPI Conference, INTC 2002, International Nonwovens Technical Conference, September 24-26, 2002, Renaissance Waverly Hotel, Atlanta, Georgia.}, publisher={Atlanta, Ga. : TAPPI}, author={Bauer-Kurz I. and Schiffler, D.A.}, year={2002}, pages={1–10} } @article{oxenham_2002, title={Current and future trend in yarn production}, volume={2}, number={2}, journal={Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={2002}, pages={1–10} } @inproceedings{oxenham_2002, title={Current and future trends in yarn production}, booktitle={Through the eye of a needle, advances in fibre, fashion and fabric : Textile Institute 82nd World Conference : 23 to 27th March, 2002, Cairo International Conference Centre}, publisher={Manchester, England: Textile Institute}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={2002}, pages={1–8} } @inproceedings{wang_mousavi_grant_hauser_oxenham_martin_davis_2002, title={Evaluating thermal degradation of textile finishing aids using GC and QCM}, ISBN={9781574771381}, booktitle={Proceedings of the 2002 National Conference on Environmental Science and Technology : Greensboro, North Carolina, September 8-10, 2002}, publisher={Columbus, Ohio: Battelle Press}, author={Wang, D. and Mousavi, P. and Grant, S. C. and Hauser, P. J. and Oxenham, W. and Martin, T. and Davis, R.}, year={2002}, pages={243–251} } @inproceedings{wang_mousavi_grant_hauser_oxenham_2002, title={Monitoring thermal stability of textile processing aids using a quartz crystal microbalance}, ISBN={9780816908912}, booktitle={Proceedings of the Topical Conference on Sensor Technology : 2002 AICHE Annual Meeting, Indianapolis, Nov. 3 - 8}, publisher={New York, NY: AIChE}, author={Wang, D. and Mousavi, P. and Grant, S. C. and Hauser, P. J. and Oxenham, W.}, editor={C.C. Liu and Martin, H.B.Editors}, year={2002}, pages={74–79} } @article{dodd_2002, title={Outlook for the U.S. short staple yarn industry}, volume={2}, number={3}, journal={Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management}, author={Dodd, E. L.}, year={2002}, pages={1–8} } @article{hwang_oxenham_seyam_2001, title={Carding of microfibers}, volume={1}, number={2}, journal={Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management}, author={Hwang, Y. J. and Oxenham, W. and Seyam, A. M.}, year={2001}, pages={1–9} } @article{oxenham_2001, title={Challenging tradition}, volume={30}, number={1}, journal={America's Textile Industries}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={2001}, pages={20–25} } @inproceedings{hodge_oxenham_schertel_2001, title={Data mining in textile spinning operations}, author={Hodge, G.L. and Oxenham, W. and Schertel, S.}, year={2001}, pages={1–6} } @inproceedings{hodge_oxenham_schertel_2001, title={Data mining in textiles}, booktitle={An odyssey in fibres and space: Textile Institute 81st World Conference: Melbourne, Australia, Melbourne Convention Centre, Sunday 1st-Wednesday 4th April, 2001}, publisher={Manchester, England: The Textile Institute}, author={Hodge, G. and Oxenham, W. and Schertel, S.}, year={2001} } @article{oxenham_2001, title={Fasciated yarns - a revolutionary development}, volume={1}, number={2}, journal={Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={2001}, pages={1–7} } @article{hwang_oxenham_seyam_2001, title={Formation of carded webs from microfibers}, volume={10}, number={1}, journal={International Nonwovens Journal}, author={Hwang, Y. J. and Oxenham, W. and Seyam, A. M.}, year={2001}, pages={18–23} } @inproceedings{dodd_oxenham_2001, title={Future trends in staple yarn production}, author={Dodd, E.L. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2001}, pages={1–12} } @inproceedings{hodge_karpe_cahill_oxenham_2001, title={Infomation engineering & effective decision-making: The textile industry}, booktitle={An odyssey in fibres and space : Textile Institute 81st World Conference : Melbourne, Australia, Melbourne Convention Centre, Sunday 1st-Wednesday 4th April, 2001}, publisher={Manchester, England : Textile Institute}, author={Hodge, G. and Karpe, Y. and Cahill, N. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2001} } @inproceedings{karpe_hodge_cahill_oxenham_2001, title={Information engineering & effective decision-making: The textile industry link}, booktitle={An odyssey in fibres and space: Textile Institute 81st World Conference: Melbourne, Australia, Melbourne Convention Centre, Sunday 1st-Wednesday 4th April, 2001}, publisher={Manchester, England: The Textile Institute}, author={Karpe, Y. and Hodge, G. and Cahill, N. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2001}, pages={1–12} } @inproceedings{karpe_hodge_oxenham_cahill_2001, title={Information engineering approach for decision-making in textiles}, booktitle={2001 Conference on Information Quality, MIT, November 2001}, author={Karpe, Y. and Hodge, G. L. and Oxenham, W. and Cahill, N.}, year={2001} } @inproceedings{gahide_hodge_oxenham_seyam_franzon_2001, title={Smart sensor to monitor warp tension and breaks on a weaving machine}, author={Gahide, S. and Hodge, G.L. and Oxenham, W. and Seyam, A.M. and Franzon, P.D.}, year={2001}, pages={1–12} } @inproceedings{gahide_hodge_seyam_oxenham_franzon_2001, title={Smart sensors to monitor warp tension and breaks on a loom}, number={2001}, author={Gahide, S. and Hodge, G. and Seyam, A. and Oxenham, W. and Franzon, P.}, year={2001} } @inproceedings{gahide s._seyam_oxenham w._p._2001, title={Smart sensors to monitor warp tension and breaks on a weaving machine}, booktitle={An odyssey in fibres and space : Textile Institute 81st World Conference : Melbourne, Australia, Melbourne Convention Centre, Sunday 1st-Wednesday 4th April, 2001}, publisher={Manchester, England : Textile Institute}, author={Gahide S., Hodge G. and Seyam, A.M. and Oxenham W. and P., Franzon}, year={2001} } @inproceedings{oxenham_bauer-kurz i._shiffler_2001, title={The mechanics of crimp removal in synthetic staple fibers}, ISBN={9789623672979}, booktitle={Innovation & globalization : proceedings, Hong Kong, August 22-24, 2001}, publisher={Hong Kong: Federation of Asian Professional Textile Associations}, author={Oxenham, W. and Bauer-Kurz I. and Shiffler, D. A.}, year={2001}, pages={1–8} } @article{oxenham_iype_xu_2001, title={The role of fiber finish on drafting behavior}, volume={1}, number={3}, journal={Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management}, author={Oxenham, W. and Iype, C. and Xu, Y. M.}, year={2001}, pages={1–8} } @article{phillips_vonwiller_luke_oxenham_mansfield_2000, title={ATME-I 2000: Exhibitor overview}, volume={29}, number={12}, journal={America's Textile Industries}, author={Phillips, J. and Vonwiller, E. and Luke, J. E. and Oxenham, W. and Mansfield, R. G.}, year={2000}, pages={26–34} } @article{phillips_vonwiller_luke_oxenham_mansfield_2000, title={ATME-I 2000: Two many?}, volume={29}, number={12}, journal={America's Textile Industries}, author={Phillips, J. and Vonwiller, E. and Luke, J. E. and Oxenham, W. and Mansfield, R. G.}, year={2000}, pages={20–25} } @inproceedings{gahide_seyam_hodge_oxenham_franzon_2000, title={Application of micromachines to textiles: Using smart sensors to monitor warp tension and breaks during formation of woven fabrics}, booktitle={Proceedings of the International Mechanical Engineering Congress & Exposition, ASME, Orlando (FL), November 2000}, publisher={New York: ASME}, author={Gahide, S. and Seyam, A. and Hodge, G. and Oxenham, W. and Franzon, P.}, year={2000} } @inproceedings{oxenham_yuksekkaya_2000, title={Assessing the frictional characteristics of fibers by compression technique}, ISBN={9781870372459}, booktitle={Papers presented at the 80th World Conference of the Textile Institute, April 2000}, publisher={Manchester, England: Textile Institute}, author={Oxenham, W. and Yuksekkaya, M.E.}, year={2000}, pages={1–12} } @inproceedings{karpe_hodge_cahill_oxenham_2000, title={Can information engineering enhance information quality for effective decision-making in textiles?}, booktitle={Proceedings of the 2000 Conference on Information Quality}, publisher={Cambridge, MA: Massachusetts Institute of Technology}, author={Karpe, Y. and Hodge, G. and Cahill, N. and Oxenham, W.}, editor={Klein, B. D. and Rossin, D. F.Editors}, year={2000} } @book{schertel_oxenham_hodge_2000, title={Data mining: Its current status and potential end uses}, ISBN={187037245X}, number={2000}, journal={Manchester 2000 CD-ROM: Papers from the 2000 Annual (80th) World Conference of The Textile Institute, April 16-19, 2000}, author={Schertel, S. and Oxenham, W. and Hodge, G.}, year={2000} } @inproceedings{schertel_oxenham_hodge_2000, title={Data mining: Its current status and potential end uses}, ISBN={9781870372459}, booktitle={80th World Conference of Textile Institute, Manchester, England, April 16-19, 2000}, publisher={Manchester, UK: Textile Institute}, author={Schertel, S. and Oxenham, W. and Hodge, G.}, year={2000}, pages={1–10} } @inproceedings{oxenham_2000, title={Developments in carding}, booktitle={INTC2000 : book of papers : joint INDA-TAPPI Conference : International Nonwovens Technical Conference : September 26-28, 2000, Hotel Inter-Continental, Dallas, Texas.}, publisher={Cary, NC: INDA, Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={2000}, pages={52.0–52.6} } @article{oxenham_2000, title={ITMA review - staple spinning}, volume={30}, number={1/2}, journal={Textile Progress}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={2000}, pages={1–12} } @article{karpe_hodge_cahill_oxenham_2000, title={Information engineering: Enhancing decision effectiveness in textiles?}, ISBN={187037245X}, number={2000}, journal={Manchester 2000 CD-ROM: Papers from the 2000 Annual (80th) World Conference of The Textile Institute. April 16-19, 2000}, author={Karpe, Y. and Hodge, G. and Cahill, N. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2000} } @inproceedings{karpe_hodge_cahill_oxenham_2000, title={Information engineering: enhancing decision effectiveness in textiles?}, booktitle={80th World Conference of Textile Institute, Manchester, England, April 16-19, 2000}, publisher={Manchester, UK: Textile Institute}, author={Karpe, Y. and Hodge, G. and Cahill, N. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2000} } @article{koch_hergeth_oxenham_ghosh_2000, title={Managing textile waste}, volume={33}, journal={Ars Textrina}, author={Koch, M.C. and Hergeth, H. and Oxenham, W. and Ghosh, T.}, year={2000}, pages={87–105} } @inproceedings{gahide_hodge_oxenham_seyam_franzon_2000, title={Micromachines and textiles: Matching two industries}, ISBN={187037245X}, number={2000}, booktitle={Manchester 2000 CD-ROM: Papers from the 2000 Annual (80th) World Conference of The Textile Institute. April 16-19, 2000}, author={Gahide, S. and Hodge, G. and Oxenham, W. and Seyam, A. M. and Franzon, P. D.}, year={2000} } @article{gahide_seyam_hodge_oxenham_franzon_2000, title={Micromachines and textiles: Matching two industries}, volume={31}, journal={Textile Asia}, author={Gahide, S. and Seyam, A. and Hodge, G. and Oxenham, W. and Franzon, P.}, year={2000}, pages={58–66} } @article{dodd_oxenham_2000, title={Open-end vs. ring-spun pricing}, volume={29}, number={9}, journal={America's Textile Industries}, author={Dodd, E. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2000} } @article{oxenham_2000, title={Preparing for change}, volume={29}, number={4}, journal={America's Textile Industries}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={2000}, pages={59–62} } @inproceedings{bryan_oxenham_yu_2000, title={The abrasion characteristics of cotton yarns}, booktitle={Beltwide Cotton Conferences. Proceedings}, author={Bryan, E. and Oxenham, W. and Yu, C.}, year={2000}, pages={803–808} } @inproceedings{oxenham_bryan_yu_2000, title={The abrasive properties of yarns}, ISBN={9781870372459}, booktitle={Papers presented at the 80th World Conference of the Textile Institute, April 2000}, publisher={Manchester, England: Textile Institute}, author={Oxenham, W. and Bryan, E. and Yu, C.}, year={2000}, pages={1–11} } @article{oumera_seyam_oxenham_2000, title={The assessment of cross card openness uniformity of a fiber feed matt}, volume={9}, number={4}, journal={International Nonwovens Journal}, author={Oumera, A. and Seyam, A. M. and Oxenham, W.}, year={2000}, pages={9–14} } @article{oumera_seyam_2000, title={The assessment of cross machine openness uniformity of a fiber feed matt}, volume={9}, number={4}, journal={International Nonwovens Journal}, author={Oumera, A. and Seyam, A.M.}, year={2000}, pages={9–14} } @inproceedings{bauer-kurz_oxenham_shiffler_2000, title={The mechanics of removing staple fiber crimp}, ISBN={9781870372459}, booktitle={Papers presented at the 80th World Conference of the Textile Institute, April 2000}, publisher={Manchester, England: Textile Institute}, author={Bauer-Kurz, I. and Oxenham, W. and Shiffler, D.A.}, year={2000}, pages={1–10} } @inproceedings{yuksekkaya_oxenham_1999, title={A novel technique for assessing the frictional characteristics of fibers - part 1: Development of instrument}, booktitle={Proceedings of the Sixth International Conference on Mechatronics and Machine Vision in Practice: 1 - 3 September 1999, Middle East Technical University, Ankara, Turkey}, publisher={Ankara : Mechanical Engineering Dep., Middle East Technical University}, author={Yuksekkaya, M.E. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1999} } @inproceedings{yuksekkaya_oxenham_1999, title={A novel technique for assessing the frictional characteristics of fibers - part 2: Evaluation of the instrument}, booktitle={Proceedings of the Sixth International Conference on Mechatronics and Machine Vision in Practice: 1 - 3 September 1999, Middle East Technical University, Ankara, Turkey}, publisher={Ankara : Mechanical Engineering Dep., Middle East Technical University}, author={Yuksekkaya, M.E. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1999} } @article{yuksekkaya_oxenham_1999, title={Analysis of mechanical and electrical noise interfacing the instrument during data acquisition: Development of a machine for assessing surface properties of fibers}, number={1999}, journal={IEEE ... Annual Textile, Fiber, and Film Industry Technical Conference}, author={Yuksekkaya, M. E. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1999}, pages={1–5} } @article{karpe_hodge_cahill_oxenham_1999, title={Can information engineering enhance the efficacy of decision-making in the textile industry?}, number={1999 Aug.}, journal={ITS Textile Leader}, author={Karpe, Y. and Hodge, G. and Cahill, N. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1999} } @article{karpe_hodge_oxenham_cahill_kilduff_1999, title={Can information engineering pave way to better decision-making in the textile industry?}, volume={3}, number={1999 Sept.}, journal={ITS Textile Leader}, author={Karpe, Y. and Hodge, G. and Oxenham, W. and Cahill, N. and Kilduff, P.}, year={1999}, pages={10–16} } @article{hwang_oxenham_seyam_1999, title={Carding of microfibers}, volume={2}, number={1999}, journal={Beltwide Cotton Conferences. Proceedings}, author={Hwang, Y.J. and Oxenham, W. and Seyam, A.M.}, year={1999}, pages={1353–1358} } @inproceedings{hwang_oxenham_seyam_1999, title={Carding of microfibers II}, booktitle={Book of papers: INDA-TEC 99, International Nonwovens Conference, September 21-23, 1999, Renaissance Waverly Hotel, Atlanta, Georgia, USA.}, publisher={Cary, N.C. : INDA, Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry}, author={Hwang, Y.J. and Oxenham, W. and Seyam, A.M.}, year={1999} } @article{oxenham_hodge_rasmovich_1999, title={Data requirements for staple spinning frames (results of a survey of US spinners)}, volume={90}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, url={http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?eid=2-s2.0-33749377482&partnerID=MN8TOARS}, DOI={10.1080/00405009908690634}, abstractNote={A survey of US spinners was carried out by the College of Textiles (North Carolina State University), in collaboration with the American Textile Manufacturers' Institute, to determine the current and future use of electronic data collection and transfer systems. The analysis concentrated on the spinning frame since it was believed that this was the most frequently updated unit, and the absence of a communication ‘standard’ presented particular difficulties when new frames were to be integrated into existing communications systems. A summary is given of information which was solicited concerning companies' philosophies with respect to data communication, and this is based on both current practice and possible future needs. The survey also produced data on the specific spinning machines installed in different facilities, and the use that is made of available components. In addition, opinions were sought on the usefulness of various data elements for process/product monitoring and control, and the results ob...}, number={2}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Oxenham, W and Hodge, G and Rasmovich, J}, year={1999}, pages={136–146} } @inproceedings{oxenham_1999, title={ITMA review in spinning}, number={1999 July}, booktitle={II Conferencia Internacional Textil/Confeccao: 21/23 julho 1999, Rio de Janeiro = 2nd International Textile and Apparel Conference: 21/23 July 1999, Rio de Janeiro}, publisher={Rio de Janeiro: SENAI/CETIQT}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={1999} } @article{karpe_hodge_cahill_oxenham_1999, title={Information engineering: Textile industry?s value adding key to effective decision-making}, number={1999}, journal={National Textile Center. Research Briefs}, author={Karpe, Y. and Hodge, G. and Cahill, N. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1999} } @article{basu_oxenham_1999, title={Interdependence of fibre type and the design of the nozzle of air-jet spinning machine}, volume={24}, number={1}, journal={Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research}, author={Basu, A. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1999}, pages={10–5} } @inproceedings{hwang_seyarn_oxenham_1999, title={Processing of microfibers}, booktitle={Beltwide Cotton Conferences. Proceedings}, author={Hwang, Y.J. and Seyarn, A. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1999} } @article{oxenham_1999, title={Spinning's predicted growth}, volume={28}, number={1}, journal={America's Textile Industries}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={1999}, pages={54–58} } @inproceedings{bryan_oxenham_1999, title={The abrasion characteristics of ring-spun and open-end yarns}, booktitle={Proceedings : November 4 - 5, 1999, Raleigh, North Carlolina}, publisher={Cary, NC : Cotton Incorporated}, author={Bryan, E. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1999}, pages={1–13} } @article{bauer-kurz_oxenham_1998, title={A correlation between tensile yarn parameters and production characteristics}, volume={1}, number={1998}, journal={Beltwide Cotton Conferences. Proceedings}, author={Bauer-Kurz, I. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1998}, pages={809–816} } @article{lee_oxenham_1998, title={Techniques to assess yarn tensile properties}, volume={1}, number={1998}, journal={Beltwide Cotton Conferences. Proceedings}, author={Lee, E.-K. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1998}, pages={790–796} } @article{zhang_iype_oxenham_1998, title={The analysis of yarn thin places and unevenness with an image-analysis system and program design}, volume={89}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405009808658596}, abstractNote={The number of thin places in a yarn has a close relationship with the definition of its size and length. Several different definitions of thin places are introduced in this paper. The image-analysis system is then used to test the diameter of real yarns continuously. Data on the continuous diameter of ideal yarns are obtained from computational simulation. The 2D yarn-fault-analysis program designed according to a comprehensive definition of yarn faults can give over-all results of yarn faults in a mapping table in which the differences are shown in a comparison of worsted wool yarns and combed-cotton yarns with corresponding ideal yarns. Other important work is also carried out. New terminology (an index of yarn faults) is introduced in order to determine more clearly the differences between yarn faults of real yarns and those of their ideal yarns at different levels.}, number={1}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Zhang, W and Iype, C and Oxenham, W}, year={1998}, pages={44–58} } @inproceedings{oxenham_hodge_rasmovich_1997, title={Data requirements for staple spinning}, booktitle={Textiles and the information society: Papers presented at the 78th World Conference of the Textile Institute in association with the 5th Textile Symposium of SEVE and SEPVE}, publisher={Manchester: Textile Institute}, author={Oxenham, W. and Hodge, G. and Rasmovich, J.}, year={1997} } @article{oxenham_1997, title={Developments in carding technology}, number={1997}, journal={Textile Technology International}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={1997}, pages={59} } @inproceedings{lee_ina bauer-kurz_oxenham_1997, title={Yarn tensile testing}, booktitle={Proceedings : November 6 - 7, 1997, Raleigh, North Carolina}, publisher={Raleigh, NC : Cotton Incorporated}, author={Lee, E-K. and Ina Bauer-Kurz and Oxenham, W.}, year={1997}, pages={183–209} } @article{oxenham_mahmoudi_1996, title={Improving the bulk of worsted yarns part 1: A basic bulking method}, volume={97}, number={3}, journal={Journal of the Textile Institute}, author={Oxenham, W. and Mahmoudi, M. R.}, year={1996}, pages={438–443} } @article{oxenham_mahmoudi_1996, title={Improving the bulk of worsted yarns part 2: Simultaneous bulking and spinning}, volume={97}, number={3}, journal={Journal of the Textile Institute}, author={Oxenham, W. and Mahmoudi, M. R.}, year={1996}, pages={44–48} } @article{jou_east_lawrence_oxenham_1996, title={The physical properties of composite yarns produced by an electrostatic filament-charging method}, volume={87}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405009608659058}, abstractNote={A technique is described for the separation of the individual filaments of a continuous-filament yarn. This involves the yarn's being treated with a small amount of Permalose TM anti-static agent and the induction of electrostatic charges onto the individual filaments. The separated filaments are intermingled with a drafted ribbon of fibres at the front-roller nip of a ring-spinning frame, to produce 20-tex 70/30 cotton/polyester-fibre filament-blended composite yarns in which a degree of mixing between Fibres and filaments was achieved. Cotton ring-spun and the equivalent core-spun yarns were also made to compare their physical properties with those of the composite yarns. Twist, fibre length, and the roving-feeding arrangement were varied to observe their influence on the yarn properties.}, number={1}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={Jou, GT and East, GC and Lawrence, CA and Oxenham, W}, year={1996}, pages={78–96} } @inproceedings{hassanin_1995, title={A Novel technique for assessing the frictional characteristics of cotton}, volume={2}, booktitle={Beltwide Cotton Conferences. Proceedings}, author={Hassanin, H.}, year={1995}, pages={1254–1257} } @inproceedings{hodge_beck_oxenham_1995, title={ATMI data survey}, booktitle={Advances in instrumentation and control: Proceedings of the ISA International Conference, New Orleans, La., 1995}, publisher={Research Triangle Park, NC: Instrument Society of America}, author={Hodge, G. L. and Beck, N. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1995} } @article{o'mara_1995, title={CIM in spinning}, volume={26}, number={12}, journal={Textile Asia}, author={O'Mara, K.J.}, year={1995}, pages={47–54} } @article{jou_east_lawrence_oxenham_1995, title={Composite yarns by a new technique, Part I}, journal={Man-Made Textiles in India}, author={Jou, G.T. and East, G.C. and Lawrence, C.A. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1995}, pages={264–268} } @article{jou_east_lawrence_oxenham_1995, title={Composite yarns by a new technique, Part II}, journal={Man-Made Textiles in India}, author={Jou, G.T. and East, G.C. and Lawrence, C.A. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1995}, pages={305–309} } @article{jou_east_lawrence_oxenham_1995, title={Composite yarns by a new technique, Part III}, journal={Man-Made Textiles in India}, author={Jou, G.T. and East, G.C. and Lawrence, C.A. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1995}, pages={345–348} } @inproceedings{oxenham_1995, title={Filament yarns}, booktitle={ITMA '95 review}, publisher={Raleigh, NC: NCSU College of Textiles}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={1995}, pages={113–121} } @article{jeddi_oxenham_1995, title={THE POTENTIAL OF FALSE TWIST TO ASSIST IN HANDLING LOW STRENGTH COTTON SLIVERS}, volume={65}, ISSN={["0040-5175"]}, DOI={10.1177/004051759506500708}, abstractNote={ In a preliminary investigation aimed at improving the processing of lightweight slivers (<3 ktex), the effect of low levels of twist on sliver strength is quantified. This is followed by trials to determine whether a passive false-twist unit (spiral) can be used to impart temporary strength to assist the transfer of sliver from a supply can to the next processing machine. The generated level of false twist is studied, and the spiral is subsequently used on a roving frame to process different sliver weights at various drafts. The experiments show that false-twist can offer a potential technique for dealing with low strength and lightweight cotton slivers. From the results, it appears that such a device has little effect on drafting regularity. }, number={7}, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={JEDDI, AAA and OXENHAM, W}, year={1995}, month={Jul}, pages={423–426} } @inproceedings{oxenham_aarnink_vasishth_1995, title={Using Advanced Fiber Information System to Monitor Fiber-Process Interactions}, volume={2}, booktitle={Beltwide Cotton Conferences. Proceedings}, author={Oxenham, W. and Aarnink, H. and Vasishth, V.}, year={1995}, pages={2409–2413} } @article{alagha_oxenham_iype_1994, title={INFLUENCE OF PRODUCTION SPEED ON THE TENACITY AND STRUCTURE OF FRICTION SPUN YARNS}, volume={64}, ISSN={["0040-5175"]}, DOI={10.1177/004051759406400401}, abstractNote={ The structural parameters of friction spun yams are investigated using an image processing system. Attempts are made to use data obtained from this analysis to explain differences in yam strength. In particular, the influence of production speed on yarn tenacity is paralleled by changes in the observed migrational characteristics. }, number={4}, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={ALAGHA, MJ and OXENHAM, W and IYPE, C}, year={1994}, month={Apr}, pages={185–189} } @article{huang_oxenham_1994, title={PREDICTING END BREAKAGE RATES IN WORSTED SPINNING .1. MEASURING DYNAMIC YARN STRENGTH AND TENSION}, volume={64}, ISSN={["0040-5175"]}, DOI={10.1177/004051759406401101}, abstractNote={ Successful forecasting of likely end breakage rates in spinning is governed by the availability of a reliable predictive model together with appropriate experimental data on yam strength and tension for inclusion in the model. Techniques for assessing dynamic yam strength and yam tension during ring spinning are described and the effects of various processing parameters on the values obtained are reported. }, number={11}, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={HUANG, XC and OXENHAM, W}, year={1994}, month={Nov}, pages={619–626} } @article{huang_oxenham_grosberg_1994, title={PREDICTING END BREAKAGE RATES IN WORSTED SPINNING .2. A NEW MODEL FOR END BREAK PREDICTION}, volume={64}, ISSN={["0040-5175"]}, DOI={10.1177/004051759406401203}, abstractNote={ Existing models for predicting end breakage rates in spinning give unrealistic values when considering the effects of changes in count or speed on the worsted ring frame. A new approach to predicting end breaks gives results that are closer to experience values. The most important factor in determining end breaks is yarn strength variation, followed by mean yarn strength and spinning tension. }, number={12}, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={HUANG, XC and OXENHAM, W and GROSBERG, P}, year={1994}, month={Dec}, pages={717–722} } @article{baoyu_oxenham_1994, title={Spinning speed and yarn qualities}, volume={25}, number={9}, journal={Textile Asia}, author={Baoyu, Z. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1994}, pages={57–62} } @article{alagha_oxenham_iype_1994, title={THE USE OF AN IMAGE-ANALYSIS TECHNIQUE FOR ASSESSING THE STRUCTURAL PARAMETERS OF FRICTION SPUN YARNS}, volume={85}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405009408631282}, abstractNote={An image analysis system has been developed to assess the structural characteristics of friction spun yarns. A description of the apparatus is presented and the use of the system for determining fibre migration and the twist characteristics is explained.}, number={3}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={ALAGHA, MJ and OXENHAM, W and IYPE, C}, year={1994}, pages={383–388} } @article{zhu_1994, title={The influence of production speed on the characteristics of hollow spindle fancy yarns}, volume={64}, number={7}, journal={Textile Research Journal}, author={Zhu, B.}, year={1994}, pages={380–387} } @article{oxenham_basu_1993, title={EFFECT OF JET DESIGN ON THE PROPERTIES OF AIR-JET SPUN YARNS}, volume={63}, ISSN={["0040-5175"]}, DOI={10.1177/004051759306301109}, abstractNote={ The application of air-jet spinning to processing of 100% cotton fibers has been limited by poor yam strength, which is due to inadequate frequency and extent of wrapper fibers. These inadequacies can be reduced by modifying the design of the jets. The effects of orifice angle, twisting chamber diameter, and friction of the twisting chamber are examined and their influence on the tenacity of 15 and 18 tex cotton yams is reported. }, number={11}, journal={TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL}, author={OXENHAM, W and BASU, A}, year={1993}, month={Nov}, pages={674–678} } @article{zhu_leaf_oxenham_1993, title={FIBER BEHAVIOR IN THE TWISTING ZONE OF A FRICTION-SPINNING PROCESS}, volume={84}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405009308631247}, abstractNote={A simple model of a fibre landing in the twisting zone of a friction spinner is described. The effects of fibre properties, air flow in the feeding tube, landing angle, and initial fibre configuration on the shape of the fibre after landing are considered.}, number={1}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={ZHU, RY and LEAF, GAV and OXENHAM, W}, year={1993}, pages={57–67} } @article{oxenham_1993, title={Staple yarn production at ATME-1 1992}, volume={110}, number={1}, journal={Canadian Apparel}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={1993}, pages={23–26} } @article{basu_oxenham_1992, title={Air-jet spun yarns}, journal={Man-Made Textiles in India}, author={Basu, A. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1992}, pages={289–294} } @article{oxenham_huang_1992, title={New spinning developments}, volume={68}, journal={Wool Science Review}, author={Oxenham, W. and Huang, X.C}, year={1992}, pages={1–36} } @article{oxenham_zhu_leaf_1992, title={OBSERVATIONS ON THE TENSILE PROPERTIES OF FRICTION-SPUN YARNS}, volume={83}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405009208631237}, abstractNote={(1992). Observations on the Tensile Properties of Friction-spun Yarns. The Journal of The Textile Institute: Vol. 83, No. 4, pp. 621-623.}, number={4}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={OXENHAM, W and ZHU, RY and LEAF, GAV}, year={1992}, pages={621–623} } @article{puttachaiyong_oxenham_1992, title={Properties of jet-spun poly-cotton yarns}, volume={23}, number={10}, journal={Textile Asia}, author={Puttachaiyong, S. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1992}, pages={52–55} } @article{oxenham_1992, title={The influence of fibre properties in air jet spinning}, volume={17}, number={4}, journal={Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={1992}, pages={194–200} } @article{smith_oxenham_1991, title={ITMA Review - yarn production machinery}, volume={11}, number={12}, journal={Textile Horizons (Manchester, England)}, author={Smith, P.A. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1991}, pages={20–25} } @inproceedings{oxenham_mahgoub_v._1991, title={The properties of yarns and fabrics produced using the hollow spindle (wrap spinning) technique}, booktitle={Metlan 91 : proceedings of the conference, 22-23 May}, publisher={Gdynia: Gdynia Wool Federation}, author={Oxenham, W. and Mahgoub, A. O. and V., Leaf G. A.}, year={1991}, pages={107–121} } @inproceedings{huang_oxenham_grosberg_1990, title={A comparison of the Cerifil system and ring spinning with particular reference to end-breaks}, volume={3}, booktitle={Proceedings of the 8th International Wool Textile Research Conference : 7-14th February 1990 Christchurch, New Zealand}, publisher={Christchurch, N.Z.: Wool Research Organisation of New Zealand}, author={Huang, X.C. and Oxenham, W. and Grosberg, P.}, year={1990}, pages={468–479} } @article{xu_oxenham_1990, title={Report on a project aimed at increasing the strength of friction spun yarn by using a false twist process}, volume={7}, number={2}, journal={Journal of China Textile University}, author={Xu, F. and Oxenham, W.}, year={1990}, pages={8–19} } @inproceedings{oxenham_thomson_garside_1988, title={Friction spinning: A study aimed at improving quality, processing speed and count range}, booktitle={High speed machinery : Conference : Papers}, publisher={London: Institute of Mechanical Engineers}, author={Oxenham, W. and Thomson, J. and Garside, B.}, year={1988}, pages={77–82} } @article{oxenham_smith_1988, title={I.T.M.A. report - developments in woollen and worsted spinning}, volume={19}, number={2}, journal={Textile Asia}, author={Oxenham, W. and Smith, P. A.}, year={1988} } @article{miao_oxenham_grosberg_1987, title={A study into the mechanics of air jet fasciation}, volume={4}, journal={Journal of China Textile University}, author={Miao, M. and Oxenham, W. and Grosberg, P.}, year={1987}, pages={59–70} } @article{miao_oxenham_grosberg_1987, title={Air jet spun yarn structure in relation to tensile properties}, volume={4}, number={2}, journal={Journal of China Textile University}, author={Miao, M. and Oxenham, W. and Grosberg, P.}, year={1987}, pages={31–47} } @article{grosberg_oxenham_miao_1987, title={THE INSERTION OF TWIST INTO YARNS BY MEANS OF AIR-JETS .1. AN EXPERIMENTAL-STUDY OF AIR-JET SPINNING}, volume={78}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405008708658245}, abstractNote={A comparison of the yarns spun on three different arrangements of air-jets shows that the Murata-type twin-jet arrangement produces well-wrapped, strong yarns. For the production of a high level of fasciation, it is necessary that the distance between the front roller nip and the position at which the edge fibres contact the the strand should be as long as possible. If the edge fibres contact the strand close to the roller nip, they will either not produce wrapping fibres or at best produce very short wraps. An analysis of the wrapping-fibre formation indicates that the Murata principle is advantageous in creating long and effective wrapping fibres. Some of the spinning conditions are investigated, and the results are interpreted in accordance with the above mechanism.}, number={3}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={GROSBERG, P and OXENHAM, W and MIAO, M}, year={1987}, pages={189–203} } @article{grosberg_oxenham_miao_1987, title={THE INSERTION OF TWIST INTO YARNS BY MEANS OF AIR-JETS .2. TWIST DISTRIBUTION AND TWIST-INSERTION RATES IN AIR-JET TWISTING}, volume={78}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405008708658246}, abstractNote={(1987). The Insertion of ‘Twist’ into Yarns by Means of Air-jets. Part II: Twist Distribution and Twist-insertion Rates in Air-jet Twisting. The Journal of The Textile Institute: Vol. 78, No. 3, pp. 204-219.}, number={3}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={GROSBERG, P and OXENHAM, W and MIAO, M}, year={1987}, pages={204–219} } @article{oxenham_smith_1987, title={Woollen and worsted yarn processing}, volume={7}, number={12}, journal={Textile Horizons (Manchester, England)}, author={Oxenham, W. and Smith, P.A.}, year={1987}, pages={27–33} } @article{xie_oxenham_grosberg_1986, title={A STUDY OF THE STRENGTH OF WRAPPED YARNS .1. THE THEORETICAL-MODEL}, volume={77}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405008608658424}, abstractNote={The tensile behaviour of wrap-spun yarns is influenced by their structure and by the properties of both the parallel-fibre core and the filament binder yarn. A general model of wrap-spun yarns is proposed, which, with appropriate assumptions, can be used to predict the relationship between yarn strength and structural parameters.}, number={5}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={XIE, Y and OXENHAM, W and GROSBERG, P}, year={1986}, pages={295–304} } @article{xie_oxenham_grosberg_1986, title={A STUDY OF THE STRENGTH OF WRAPPED YARNS .2. COMPUTATION AND EXPERIMENTAL}, volume={77}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405008608658425}, abstractNote={By substituting appropriate values into a theoretical model of wrap-spun yarns, it is possible to predict their tensile behavior. The predicted values are compared with experimental data, and reasonable agreement is shown to exist except at high twist levels. An explanation is given for the increasing deviation between predicted and experimental values as the twist is increased.}, number={5}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={XIE, Y and OXENHAM, W and GROSBERG, P}, year={1986}, pages={305–313} } @article{xie_oxenham_grosberg_1986, title={A STUDY OF THE STRENGTH OF WRAPPED YARNS .3. THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN STRUCTURAL PARAMETERS AND STRENGTH}, volume={77}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405008608658426}, abstractNote={By applying appropriate assumptions to a general model of wrap-spun yarns, it is possible to obtain a much-simplified relation between tensile behaviour and structural parameters. This simplified model is used to predict the effect of binder type and twist on yarn strength and is shown to be in reasonable agreement with experimental data.}, number={5}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={XIE, Y and OXENHAM, W and GROSBERG, P}, year={1986}, pages={314–326} } @article{oxenham_1985, title={Newer methods of spinning}, volume={14}, number={3}, journal={Textiles (Manchester, England)}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={1985}, pages={58–62} } @inproceedings{grosberg_oxenham_xie_1985, title={The tenacity of wool wrapped yarns}, volume={2}, booktitle={Proceedings of the 7th International Wool Textile Research Conference, Tokyo, 1985}, publisher={Tokyo, Japan: Society of Fiber Science and Technology, Japan,}, author={Grosberg, P. and Oxenham, W. and Xie, Y.}, year={1985}, pages={376–385} } @article{oxenham_1984, title={New systems of yarn making}, volume={February}, journal={Textile Month}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={1984}, pages={34–38} } @article{oxenham_1984, title={Staple spinning; card sliver to yarn}, volume={15}, number={3}, journal={Textile Asia}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={1984}, pages={48–63} } @article{oxenham_1984, title={Unconventional spinning systems}, volume={15}, number={2}, journal={Textile Asia}, author={Oxenham, W.}, year={1984}, pages={40–45} } @article{leaf_oxenham_1981, title={THE COMPRESSION OF YARNS .1. THE COMPRESSION-ENERGY FUNCTION}, volume={72}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405008108631646}, abstractNote={The energy stored in a unit length of yam compressed to a known amount by equal and opposite forces is calculated by assuming the helix model of the yarn and by examining the strain-energy in the individual helices. A convenient expression for the energy function is derived.}, number={4}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={LEAF, GAV and OXENHAM, W}, year={1981}, pages={168–175} } @article{leaf_oxenham_1981, title={THE COMPRESSION OF YARNS .2. THE LOAD-COMPRESSION RELATION}, volume={72}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405008108631647}, abstractNote={By using the compression-energy function derived in Part I, the relation between the compressive force and the deformation it produces is derived. The theoretical result is compared with some experimental data.}, number={4}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={LEAF, GAV and OXENHAM, W}, year={1981}, pages={176–182} } @misc{henshaw_1982, title={Worsted spinning}, volume={2}, DOI={10.1080/00405168108688889}, number={9}, journal={Textile Horizons (Manchester, England)}, author={Henshaw, D.E.}, year={1982} } @article{oxenham_wilson_1980, title={The processing of burry wools}, volume={18}, number={6}, journal={Journal of the Textile Institute}, author={Oxenham, W. and Wilson, I.B.}, year={1980}, pages={154} } @article{onions_oxenham_townhill_1977, title={RAPID MEASUREMENT OF TENSILE PROPERTIES OF FIBER BUNDLES .1. APPARATUS}, volume={68}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405007708631414}, abstractNote={A description is given of the construction and operation of a low-cost tester designed specifically to provide a rapid measurement of the tensile properties of wool-fibre bundles. The displacement of a cantilever beam is monitored by a transducer, and the ensuing electrical output is related to specimen breaking force, work of rupture, and elongation.}, number={11}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={ONIONS, WJ and OXENHAM, W and TOWNHILL, PA}, year={1977}, pages={370–375} } @article{onions_oxenham_townhill_1977, title={RAPID MEASUREMENT OF TENSILE PROPERTIES OF FIBER BUNDLES .2. EXAMPLES OF EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS}, volume={68}, ISSN={["0040-5000"]}, DOI={10.1080/00405007708631415}, abstractNote={An account is given of the use of the bundle tester described in Part I of this series to determine the breaking force, work of rupture, and elongation at break of various textile specimens. Typical results (which include tests on wool staples and semi-processed materials) are reported.}, number={11}, journal={JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE}, author={ONIONS, WJ and OXENHAM, W and TOWNHILL, PA}, year={1977}, pages={376–383} }